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TOY CRAFT 



TOY CRAFT 


LEON H. BAXTER 

Director of Manual Training, Public Schools 

ST. JOHNSBURY, VT. 


Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction 




fBRUCET 




i 


THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 



Copyright 1022 
The Bruce Publishing Company 
Printed in the United States of Ame 






JAN 29 '23 

©CIAGU8089 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES 



THE purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy 
Craft" is to furnish definite instructions for the 
making of toys for boys and girls by the children 
themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and 
animals — of how much greater value is one such play- 
thing actually put together by a child than any number 
of toys made in a factory or imported from some foreign 
country? Truly a step forward has been taken in put- 
ting before the people a bo9k which will unconsciously 
instill in the minds of the children the value of the hand- 
made in preference to the machine-made article. 

Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish 
such a volume as "Toy Craft" in the light of his knowl- 
edge of manual training, but also because of his under- 
standing of the spirit behind the production of toys, 
which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls. 

To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden 
cart, or bird, or animal may be added the happiness of 
doing the work for some other child. It is this vision 
of service for others which Mr. Baxter has already caught 
and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little volume 
will do much to promote the improved individual con- 
struction of toys by children, at the same time instilling 



into the hearts of the boys the joy of making something 
for somebody else, of experiencing the truth, "It is more 
blessed to give than to receive." 

MABEL E. TURNER, 



Field Representative tor Junior Service. 
New England Division, American Red Cros 



ONE of the hard problems in manual training, for 
boys up to twelve years of age, is to find worth- 
while things to make, within the capacity of boys 
of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work 
for over twenty years I can appreciate the problems of 
the manual training instructor in the grades. 

After carefully examining the cuts and directions for 
the various projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having 
seen the boys at work, as well as the completed articles, 
in Mr. Baxter's department, I can readily see how the 
great interest that is inspired in the boys is derived. 

I heartily commend this book to all manual training 
teachers as a great help in the solution of their prob- 
lems with boys. 

STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E, 

Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School. 



PREFACE 



EACH year American parents spend millions of dol- 
lars for toys for the children. In a short time a 
large part of these toys are broken, and lie in the 
corner or the back yard. This is because of the de- 
structive habits children have developed. These same 
habits have been formed because, since birth, toys have 
cost these children nothing. 

Children, like grown-ups, value things and form 
habits in proportion to the cost to them. They break up 
what costs them nothing, and cherish and keep repaired 
what they, themselves, have made or purchased with 
self-denial or self-earned money. 

The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the 
character of the child is infinitely worse. Destructive 
tendencies are developed, while constructive ability is 
allowed. to lie dormant and inactive. 

The remedy for this is to develop the constructive 
rather than the destructive in children by buying them 
working outfits and books of instruction with which they 
can make and repair things for themselves. In other 
words, buy tools, ecp_upment and supplies rather than 



finished toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is noth- 
ing; man with tools is all." Education is to children 
what civilization is to the race. 

What to buy for each particular child depends upon 
the age and tendencies of the child and is a matter par- 
ents must determine for themselves. The important test 
is, "Is it something that the child can use to make things 
for himself, for others and for the home?" 

When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave 
some part of the outfit for the children to make or to 
buy from money they themselves have earned. In other 
words, co-operate with the children instead of doing it 
all for them. 

The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point 
of view, but from the parent's as well. The problems 
offered in this book are not only within the capabilities 
of the average child, but are all tested and proven as 
being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's 
ideals and imagination. 

LEON H. BAXTER. 

St. Johnsbury, Vt. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 

History of Toy-Making 11-3 

Equipment 13-4 

Laying Out Work 14 

Transferring a Design 14-5 

Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability. 15 

Finish and Color 15-7 

Staining 17-8 

Method of Jointing Wood 18-20 

Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work. . . 20 

Support to be Held in Vise 20-2 

Supports for Table Use 22 

The Bench Hook 22-4 

Simple Tool Sharpening 24-G 

Coping Saw Work 26-7 

Dowel Sticks 27 

Picture Puzzle Construction 27-8 

Pelican 29 

Duck 30 

Goose 31 

Rhinoceros 32 

Elephant 33 

Rabbit 34 

Lamb 35 

Goat 36 

Rooster 37 

Camel 38 

Method of Enlarging Figures 39-40 

Dippy Duck 40-1 

Monitor 42-3 

Merrimac 44-5 

Child's Snow Shovel 46-7 

The Periscope 47-8 

Doll's Ironing Board (Size A) 49-51 

Doll's Ironing Board (Size B) 51-3 



Page 

Doll's Ironing Board (Size C) 53-5 

Doll's Clothes Rack 55-7 

Child's Wash Bench 57-9 

Child's Step Ladder 59-63 

Doll's Table with Drawer 62-4 

Colonial Doll's Table 64-6 

Colonial Doll's Chair 66-7 

Ring-The-Hook Game 68-9 

Five Post Ring Toss 68-72 

Bean Bag Game 72-4 

Dart Board Game 74-6 

Darts '■ 75-7 

Wind Mill 77-80 

Wind Mill (Tvpe B) 80-2 

Sand or Water Mill 82-4 

Doll's Cradle 84-7 

Colonial Doll Cradle 87-9 

Doll's Bed 89-91 

Two Types of Stilts 91-3 

Child's Cart 93-5 

Child's Dump Wagon 95-9 

Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A ) 99-103 

Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B ) 102-5 

Clown Running Wheel 105-9 

Cock Horse 109-10 

Rocking Rooster 111-13 

Kiddie Kar 113-15 

Kiddie Koaster 116-19 

Ski Skooter 119-22 

Method of Bending Runners 121-2 

Ski Skippers 122-5 

Doll Sleigh 125-8 

Child's Table 128-30 

Child's Chair 130-1 




Boy Toy Makers and Smur of their Pro.liic 



TOY CRAFT 



HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING. 

TO TELL the history of toy-making from its earliest 
days it would be necessary to follow the story 
back through many centuries, for the archaeolo- 
gists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and 
Egypt, have made the surprising discovery that children 
played with dolls, and jointed dolls at that, more than 
five thousand years ago. 

Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have 
unearthed other playthings that children still crave : 
dolls furniture, animal toys and toys with wheels, illus- 
trating the methods of transportation of those early 
days. 

These same scientists claim that the custom of play- 
ing with dolls and other toys is as old as the world 
itself and that playthings are, and always have been, 
just as necessary a constituent of human health and de- 
/clopment as either food or medicine. 

They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave 
toys is that nature requires them, and to deprive children 



of such playthings would be to retard their mental 
growth and development. 

The Latin word trochus means a hoop for children. 
The hoops of Roman children were made of bronze and 
iron and were rolled by a sort of a crooked stick and 
sometimes had small bells attached. 

Pupa, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies 
to dolls which were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory 
and terra cotta. When the Greek girls of that time mar- 
ried they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the Roman 
girls, to Venus ; but, if they died before marriage, their 
dolls were buried with them. 

The Latin word crepundia meant children's play- 
things, such as rattles, dolls, toy hatchets and swords. 

The toys made during the middle ages for the chil- 
dren of noble families and rich merchants, show special 
care and fine workmanship. Many of them were of a 
religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Cru- 
saders, or military in origin, like miniature knights on 
horseback. The toys of this period were generally carved 
by goldsmiths. 



TOY CRAFT 



The American Indians and the Esquimaux made 
dolls from bits of skin and fur of wild animals and gaily 
decorated them with shells, beads and feathers. They 
also carved small models of animals and human beings 
from wood and bone. 

The oldest European toy manufacturing center is 
Nuremberg, Germany. This town is especially noted 
for its metal playthings, like the lead soldiers, which 
were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in Ger- 
many, is the greatest European center for the manufac- 
ture of wooden toys. 

Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufactur- 
ing center in the United States, nearly every enterprise 
in that town being toy-making. 

In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of 
manufacturing playthings has been so slow that, even 
as late as one hundred years ago, the types of toys were 
few in number, simple in construction and extremely ex- 
pensive, especially in the United States. 

There was no systematic manufacture of such arti- 
cles, and, as the cost of importation was very high, com- 
paratively few persons could afford such means of 
amusement for their children. 

The children of those days accepted more primitive 
things, dolls that were often merely pieces of cloth 



folded and pinned in such a manner as to suggest the 
outline that was not there. 

A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, ten- 
pins, marbles, battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet 
blocks, represented the limit of the toy-makers' stock. 

In America the toy-making industry is of quite re- 
cent origin. Before 1875 more than ninety per cent of 
the toys sold in this country were of foreign manufac- 
ture, and those that were made here were never ex- 
ported to other countries. Today, however, about five 
per cent of the toys sold here are made abroad and the 
rest are manufactured here in our own country. Up to 
1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States. 

Today, while we import some dainty toys from 
France, Germany and Switzerland, nearly all the newest, 
unique and mechanical productions are made in America. 

Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and 
the same principles employed by mechanical engineers, 
in duplicating parts of machinery, are used in making 
duplicate parts of toys. 

When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to 
its most simple element. Jigs are then made so that 
each piece will be an exact duplicate of every similar 
piece, and the construction is pushed through on the 
American factory system. 

Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hun- 



TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 



dred dollars. These are readily purchased, however, by 
people of means. 

In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those 
which suggest rather than fulfill, and those with which 
the child can really do something. Mechanical toys, 
which supply their own energy, should not be allowed to 
take the place of those into which the child must infuse 
part of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, 
then, that the toys made by the children themselves are 
the ideal ones. 

EQUIPMENT. 

The following drawings vary in difficulty from those 
within the ability of a nine or ten-year-old child to those 
which should not be attempted by a child under junior 
high school age. Of course there are younger boys, who 
possess especial ability in this line of work and who can 
successfully carry through projects which the ordinary 
child of a like age would fail to satisfactorily complete. 
Such boys are, however, the exception. 

For the younger workman the following outfit is 
ample : 

One coping saw frame. 

One dozen saw blades. 

A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to 
keep it sharp. 



Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some 
one-inch brads. 

The whole outfit will cost about a dollar. 

A small plane is very convenient, but it is not abso- 
lutely necessary for work for younger children. 

A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent 
marring the table, can be made from a piece of boxwood 
%"x6"xl2". A hole should be bored about three inches 
from one end and half way between the sides, and a 
V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board 
to the hole. The photograph on Page 20 shows the saw- 
ing board in use and illustrates two methods of con- 
structing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for 
method of making these boards. If a vise is available 
matters are very much simplified. 

With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy fur- 
niture, jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like 
nature can be made. 

The material should be thin wood from the thickness 
of cigar box wood (which by the way is especially good 
to use for some of the toys), up to one-half inch in thick- 
ness. 

Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar 
wall board, is very good for the smaller toys but lacks 
strength and cannot be handled roughly. 



TOY CRAFT 



Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms 
which specialize in veneer. It is strong and serviceable 
but a little more expensive than the plain wood. 

Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy- 
making, as they work very easily and are light in weight. 

For the older boy, who will no donbt be handy about 
the house, the following tools are suggested : 
1 Rip saw. 1 Jack, or smooth, plane. 

1 Turning saw 1 Brace, set of bits and coun- 

1 Claw hamme'r. A ^f^,, ^.^ 

1 Screw driver. ! Try square . 

1 Half round file, No. 10. 1 Pair of 6" dividers. 

1 Ruler. 1 Knife. 

This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may 
be added by the boy himself as the necessity arises. 

If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one 
may be made from a stout dry goods box and a more 
satisfactory one purchased later with money earned by 
the boy by making things for others. 

Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are 
never satisfactory. A few tools of good quality should 
be purchased to start with, and others should be added 
as necessity demands and funds permit. 
LAYING OUT WORK. 

For the young beginner it will be necessary to have 
patterns of animals and other toys to trace around, be- 
fore cutting out the forms. 



In the author's opinion originality should be always 
encouraged in a boy when the original designs can be 
successfully worked out to completion by the boy. 

With beginners, however, considerable tact must be 
used in leading them on to work out original ideas 
through the medium of the sketching pencil. Only very 
few have the ability to carry out an idea which they 
may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial 
on paper the resulting product is most always a failure. 
As stated before, the first work should be tracings from 
well-designed patterns. These, then, can be successfully 
worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of 
the child and not a discouraging failure. 

TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD. 

A design may be traced by placing a piece of trans- 
parent paper over the desired drawing and outlining it 
with a pencil. The resulting tracing is cut out, placed 
on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and redrawn 
on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or 
a sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time 
and other patterns may be made from it in a similar 
manner. 

Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon 
paper beneath the desired drawing, carbon side down, 
and to go over the lines of the drawing with a medium- 



FINISH OF TOYS 



hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly on the 
wood or .on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out 
and used as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the 
picture is pasted directly on the wood and, after drying, 
is cut at random. See Plate 5. 

ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S 
ABILITY. 

As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the 
simpler toy forms for others of increasing difficulty, he 
should be encouraged to read the working drawings of 
the article which he intends to make. Show him how 
to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thick- 
nesses of the pieces to be made and, after carefully 
checking him up, let him work out his own salvation for 
a while. In other words, do not do it all for him. Let 
the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. 
Be ready, however, to assist at the right moment and 
never turn a deaf ear to the persistent question, "Why"? 

By following this logical method of procedure in 
teaching, the writer has found that the young craftsman 
is ready a great deal earlier to work out original ideas 
and designs to a practical and successful conclusion. 
FINISH AND COLOR. 

After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, 
all pieces should be carefully sanded to insure the re- 
moval of all scars, pencil lines and other imperfections. 



Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care 
should be taken that no paper hangs over the block, thus 
rounding the edges of the work being finished. 

In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a 
block is not used, but the sandpaper is folded two or 
three times and used under the finger tips. Care must be 
taken especially not to wear through the finish on the 
edges. 

Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger chil- 
dren to use. Colors handled by beginners will run to- 
gether and will be "dauby" in appearance and a detri- 
ment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this is the 
likelihood of a generous application on the painter's 
hands and clothing. 

The writer has had excellent results in using the or- 
dinary colored wax crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to 
apply, has a pleasing color tone, is clean and very sat- 
isfactory for the beginnner. After all of a toy has been 
colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at 
the point of contact of the colors, with an ordinary draft- 
ing pen and India ink. Pains should be taken to see that 
the ink is dry in one place before applying in another. 
If the crayon has been put on with pressure and uni- 
formly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" 



TOY CRAFT 



without spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished 
appearance. 

For more advanced workers the toys should be 
painted with either commercial or enamel paints, which 
are available on the market in all colors, or with colors 
mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his own 
colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints 
is done away with. 

By adding to white enamel a small amount of a se- 
lected color, ground in oil, various tones of the color may 
be obtained. 

In painting any object a first or priming coat is ap- 
plied. Flat white is an excellent all-round primer. After 
the priming coat has dried thoroughly on a toy, it should 
be sanded lightly to remove any rough places with No. 
sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should lie 
applied. 

Graj is also very good for the first coat except where 
a white or very light colored paints are to be used for 
the finished coat. 

When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it 
is economy to have a string or wire stretched between 
two hooks six or seven feet from the floor, on which to 
hang the painted article. 

Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will 



not be seen, such as the lower edge of the animal toys, 
and attach a short length of string or wire to this and 
hang up as before described. This nail will be handy 
to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is 
out of the way, is not touching anything to cause marks 
on the paint, and is high enough up to be where the 
temperature of the room will assist in the drying process. 
Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible toys 
should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no 






Pi 



PAINTING AND STAINING 



dust stirring or drafts blowing, and where the tempera- 
ture is fairly uniform, not falling below 60 degrees. 

Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, 
holding the brush nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke 
and taking care to prevent "tears" or surplus paint run- 
ning over an edge. The brush should be in proportion 
to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should 
be outward toward the edges rather than from the edges 
inward. 

Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed 
with No. 3 round sable brush or with India ink in an 
ordinary drafting pen. The latter method of outlining 
and drawing in features has proved most successful with 
the writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a 
firm pressure on the surface of the work and insures a 
uniform line. Fine or coarse lines may be made by ad- 
justing the pen to suit the desired need. 

Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place 
lines with a fine pointed brush held in the hands of an 
inexperienced boy, and the drafting-pen method sim- 
plifies the problem immensely. 

Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve 
the appearance of the toy fifty per cent. 

Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat 
of white shellac or varnish. 

Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, 



etc., should have the different parts painted before as- 
sembling. 

STAINING. 

Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be 
carefully examined to see that all scars, glue or scratches 
have been removed. This is very important as the stain 
will show up all imperfections in the wood very plainly. 
Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the 
piece of work at hand and should then be applied with a 
brush with the grain of the wood in long narrow bands 
from one end of the work to the other. The stain should 
be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being 
applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out 
the grain of the wood. 

Pains must be taken when staining the edges not 
to allow the stain to run over on the adjacent surface. 
If it does the stain should be quickly wiped off with a 
piece of waste before it causes the surface to be un- 
evenly stained. 

There will probably be no necessity in toy construc- 
tion to use filler on the wood so the method of applying 
this will be omitted. 

Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one 
part of alcohol to three parts of shellac), brushing it on 
quickly with the grain of the wood. 



TOY CRAFT 



Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps 
or runs show, work them out with the brush. 

After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should 
be rubbed lightly with No. sandpaper. Be careful not 
to sand through the shellac, particularly on the edges. 
A second coat may be applied if desired. 

For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid 
wax, the latter being preferable. 

Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Ap- 
ply evenly with a soft cloth and allow it to dry for an 
hour. Rub down to the proper luster with a soft clean 
cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied if 
desired. 

METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD. 
If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot 
be obtained from material at hand, two pieces may have 
to be joined together. 

One edge of each piece to be joined should be care- 
fully planed square and straight. Keep trying the two 
edges together until a satisfactory joint is obtained, one 
so satisfactory that when the edges are placed together 
no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained 
we are ready to take the next step— to locate holes for 
dowels. 

This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the 
two pieces are placed face to face and lines are squared 



across the two edges, planning enough space to insure a 

strong job. Two or three dowels are usually sufficient. 

Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of 

the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown. 
Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is 

thick. Thus for half inch stock the holes should be at 

least an inch deep. 

For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole 

should be bored with a quarter inch bit, for wood three- 
quarter inch to one inch thick a half inch bit should be 
used. 

Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the 
bit is at right angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise 
difficulties will arise when we come to put the work to- 
gether. 

After all holes are bored, the round sticks called 
dowels should be cut, one-eighth inch shorter than the 
combined depths of the two holes. This allowance is 
made so that glue may work under the ends of the dow- 
els and also that the dowels may not be too long and 
thus prevent the edges of the joint from coming to- 
gether. 

Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes 
and spread glue on both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, 
Plate 1. 



P/o/z / 




fiETtioD orjo/nr/no WOOD. 



Jouor/na across sor obwe/ ho/zj 





yyaaaa 

/Varresh/ff C/omp 



TOY CRAFT 



Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the 
edges of the wood from the iron of the clamps with small 
pieces or blocks of soft wood. 

Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps 
are at hand a makeshift clamp may be made, as shown 
in Fig. D. In using this clamping arrangement a strong 
piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where such 
nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about 
three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be 
clamped against this and nail two wedge shaped pieces 
about an inch and a half away, as shown. Prepare other 
pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to drive into 
place, as indicated. 

By a careful study of Fig. D the important features 
of such a method of clamping will be understood. 

The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will 
be found most convenient for the beginner to use. The 
clamps should remain on the work overnight, and when 
removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned 
of all glue and planed. 

SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK. 

In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work 
while using the coping saw. Fig. A is a type of support 
suitable for use in a vise and is of a heighth that will 




Work di'lailcil 
Plate 2. 

enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is 
lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. 
This type is designed for use where there is no vise and 
is held secure by a clamp, as is shown in the sketch. 

SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE. 

In making this support the following method should 
be followed : 

The back piece is first made %"x6j4"x20". The top 
is made %"x.6j4"x\2" and the brace %"x3"x8i/ 2 ". This 



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SUPPORTS TOR flOLD/fi 6 COP/P/G SAW WORK 



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TOY CRAFT 



brace tapers to a point at the lower end. Two small 
cleats are Ji"xl}i"x6}i" and are attached to the upright 
piece l%" up from the bottom edge. This allows the 
support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one 
end of the top piece 5" and have this point come half way 
between the sides. At this point a hole is carefully bored 
with a }4" bit. On this same end measure in from each 
edge 2J4"- From these points draw lines tangent to the 
edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped 
notch. 

Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that 
will allow using 1J4" or iy 2 " ', No. 8 flat-head screws. 
Have all surfaces sanded smoothly and assemble with 
glue and screws. 

SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE. 

For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make 
the upright %"x6}i"x.8%". The top is cut %"x6%"xl2" 
and the base %"x5"x6j4" and the upright brace %"x3"x 
8". The top has the same V-shaped notch cut in it as 
the other form of support. Bore all necessary holes, 
sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch 
answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased 
for a small sum. at any hardware store. 
THE BENCH HOOK. 

The bench hook is a very useful article to have about 
the work bench. It is made of hard wood, preferably 



maple. The drawing is shown in Plate 3. The main 
piece is made %"x6"xl2". Two cross cleats are made, 
one being %"xl^"x6" and the other %"xl^"x5". Holes 
are bored and countersunk at the places shown in the 
drawing. Great care must be taken in cutting these three 
pieces of wood to see that every edge is square and true. 
One of the cleats is attached on one side of the board 
even with the end, while the other is placed on the other 
side on the opposite end. These are held in place with 
glue and 1%" No. 8 flat-head screws. By referring to 
the drawing and the sketch the idea may be readily seen. 
It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end even 
with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch 
at the right. When used with this side up it is for the 
purpose of sawing off small pieces of wood with the hack- 
saw, and when used with the other side up, on which 
the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of planing 
the end of a piece of wood across the grain. 

If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing 
and the planing is done across the grain, the fibers on 
the further edge have no support but break away, as 
shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the 
wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long 
cleat, and the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed 
back and forth. (Plate 3, Fig. A.) It can be readily 



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TOY CRAFT 



seen that supported as it now is, the piece of wood being 
planed will not splinter or break on its further edge. 
Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on 
its side, not raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing 
the resulting planed edge will not be square. This bench- 
hook may be made quite easily by the beginner and be- 
sides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition 
to the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood 
not over six or seven inches wide. Wood wider than 
this should be planed as follows: Place the piece of 
wood upright in the vise with the end grain uppermost, 
and plane about three-quarters of the way across the 
edge. Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part 
back in the opposite direction. By so doing the end of 
the wood will not be split. 

Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the 
bench-hook for both sawing and planing. 

SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING. 

In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is 
very necessary that all cutting tools be kept sharp. And 
it is important that every boy who undertakes toy mak- 
ing have an elementary knowledge of the subject, espe- 
cially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the 
knife, the chisel and the plane blade. 

If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, 



it should be ground first on the grindstone. It is quite 
important that the blade be held at the proper angle, 
about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool holder, 
such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a 
very useful article to have in the tool equipment. The 
tool is held in place, bevel side down, by thumbscrews, 
and projects beyond the holder a little over half an inch. 

The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent 
heating the tool and also to insure the washing away of 
the fine particles of steel from the surface of the stone. 

The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the 
tool to be concave if held steadily in one position, as 
shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B shows the incorrect 
result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone. It 
can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a 
very sharp cutting edge. 

Care should be taken when grinding not to round the 
corners of the tool. 

The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same 
as that of the wedge ; the thinner the wedge the easier it 
is to drive it. However, the wedge, as well as the tool, 
must be thick enough to stand the strain of being driven 
into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut. 
Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses 
its edge through usage, while too blunt an edge makes 
the tool unsatisfactory to work with. 



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TOY CRAFT 



The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a 
wire edge, as it is called. This roughness is removed 
on the oil stone. One or two drops of thin stone oil 
should be placed, on the stone and the tool placed bevel 
side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a cir- 
cular motion, bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. 
Turn the blade over, bevel side up, seeing that the blade 
lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work with a similar 
motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as 
sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by 
drawing the blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade 
clings to the skin it will be found sharp enough. 

Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect 
methods of oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the 
stone dry after using, as the oil will dry and gum up the 
grinding surface if not kept clean. 

Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult op- 
eration at first and skill comes only with continued 
practice. 

In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should 
be taken to keep the blade nearly flat on the stone in 
order to get a thin, sharp edge. The knife should be 
sharpened first on one side and then on the other, until 
the desired edge is obtained. 

Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods 




of holding the knifeblade on the stone. Figures E and F 
show the results of careless sharpening. Fig. G is sharp- 
ened correctly. 

COPING SAW WORK. 

The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 
to 17) are especially interesting to the beginner and are 
excellent for the novice to prove and improve his skill 
with the coping saw. 



COPING SAW AND DOWEL STICKS 



Wood from Y\" to y 2 " in thickness is best for this 
type of toy, }i" being a good medium thickness to use. 
Pulp board, such as Beaver board, is also very good, as 
there is no grain and, therefore, little liability of split- 
ting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely. 

All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made 
of l / 2 " wood, of a size shown on the various .drawings. 
The animal is attached to the base with glue and 1J4" 
brads. 

Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a 
dowel) an inch in diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 
Y&" thick. 

Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels 
large enough to allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 
round-head blue screw. Washers should be placed on 
the screws on both sides of the wheels. 

Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base. 

DOWEL STICKS. 

Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an 
assortment of various sizes should be kept on hand. 
They are very handy in many ways in toy making and 
furniture construction. They come in sizes from Y\" to 
1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from 
two to three cents apiece. 



Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local 
hardware men or may be obtained from manufacturers 
of mill work. 

PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION. 

The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting 
and especially good for .the beginner. 

First, select a picture of the size desired from a cal- 
endar or discarded magazine. Colored pictures are the 
best. 

Prepare a piece of %" soft wood, such as bass or 
pine, and glue the picture to the surface, rolling and 
pressing out air bubbles and smoothing away all 
wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it to 
dry overnight. 

Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight 
up and down, or in other words, at right angles with the 
surface of the work, saw out irregular shaped pieces sim- 
ilar to those shown in the accompanying drawing. 

If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, 
such as may be purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, 
it will make a very pleasing Christmas gift. 



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TOY CRAFT 



METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES. 

If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be 
enlarged the following method is very simple : 

Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quar- 
ter inch squares, like the drawing of the duck in Plate 
16. 

If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original 
size, draw a rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard 
twice as large as the picture. Divide it into exactly the 
same number of squares, which will now be twice as 
large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and 
number all parts to agree. 

Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the 
lines pass through the same places in the squares of the 
large rectangle as in the small. 

With a little patience it will be surprising how accu- 
rate a copy can be made. 

A picture may be reduced by the same method. 

DIPPY DUCK. 

This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and 
has added action by the placing of the inner piece off- 
center on the larger wheel, thus causing the duck to move 
up and down as the toy is pulled along on the floor. 

As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made 
of four separate pieces, because it is easier to construct 



it this way than to cut out the slot from a solid piece. 
The wood used is %" pine, the two long pieces being 
l/^" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces l%" wide 
by 2]A" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small 
chamfer is planed around the top edge, as shown. 

The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 
J,s"xl"x7 / r V'. A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 
Y>" bit and the slot is sawed out. The opposite end is 
rounded. 

A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 
}i" from the end, of a size that will take a piece of 16- 
penny nail tightly. The nail is cut one inch long and 
serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole is 
bored, JHs" from the other end, with a larger drill so that 
the nail used at this point will be smaller than the hole, 
allowing the base piece to move easily upon it. 

The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a 
curtain rod 2 r 4" in diameter or by turning down a piece 
to this diameter on the lathe. This wheel is cut %" 
thick. The four main wheels are lj4" in diameter and 
: \x" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly 
in their center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, 
or a screw, nail to turn easily within. 

The wheels are attached two inches from the ends 
and the nails are driven in straight so as to insure the 
wheels turning evenly. A screw eye is placed at the 



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THE MONITOR 



/hich is attached a string to pull 



front end, as shown, to 
it by. 

All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling 
and then given two coats of paint. A suggested color 
scheme is given on the drawing. 

THE MONITOR. 

This design is what might be called an amphibious 
toy, which means one that is at home both on the land 
and water. 

The base, or hull, is made from a piece of y>" board, 
5}4" wide and 14" long. At a point on the long edges, 
4^" from the ends, a center is taken with a compass, 
or pair of dividers, set at 5%" radius, as shown in the 
drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line 
with a coping saw and finish smooth. 

The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either 
turned on a lathe or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. 
If care is used the pieces can also be cut with a turning 
saw from a piece of wood of the required thickness. The 
two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of %" board and 
are iy in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and 
glue, \y A " from each end. 

For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole 
is bored in the hull exactly in the middle. In boring, a 
bit a little larger than the size of a \y 2 " No. 8 flat-head 




screw is used, in order that the screw shank will move 
easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A 
smaller hole is started on the under side of the turret to 
receive the screw and, when the pieces are assembled, 
the screw is not screwed up tight, but enough play is 
left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily. 

The two "guns" may be cut from $4" dowels, 2}i" 
long, or may be turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, 
on opposite sides of the turret, y%" deep, to receive the 
guns which are glued in. 

The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are 



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THE MERRIMAC 



made *4"xj4"x4", and are secured in place 4" from bow 
and stern with shingle nails and glue. 

The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, %" thick. 

A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel 
a little larger than the wire of a shingle nail, which is 
used to hold them in place on the base. 

A small piece of J4" dowel about 2J4" long, is in- 
serted in a hole, bored with a J4" bit, }i" from the bow. 
This is the flagstaff, and just in front of this is placed 
a small screw eye to attach the string for pulling the toy. 
Give the entire toy two coats of black paint. 
THE MERRIMAC. 

The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make 
than the Monitor, but it is well within the ability of a 
sixth grade boy. 

The hull is made J^"x;5^"xl4", and is sawed to a 
point at the bow and stern, sloping from the center point 
of both ends to points 3%" from either end. 

The upper works are made from a block of wood 1 Y\" 
thick, 4'j" wide and 7y 2 " long. This is beveled so that 
the top is 3j'4"x6j4". 

The two smokestacks are made from pieces of %" 
dowel, cut 3%" long and inserted in holes bored y 2 " deep, 
1" from the sides of the upper deck and 3;Hs" from the 
ends. These are held in place with glue. 

The flagstaff is cut from a piece of J4" dowel, 2}£" 



long, inserted in a hole, bored with a J4" bit, Y" from 
the bow. 

Just in front of this, %" from the end, is placed a 
small screw-eye to which a string may be attached. 

The ten "guns" are made from l / 2 " dowels, cut 1" 
long, and at an angle so that the lower side is %" long. 
This is so that they will fit against the sloping sides of 
the turret. 

A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their 
centers, so that a l J / 2 " finish nail will fit in nicely. 

The guns are held in place with these nails and with 
glue at the points indicated on the drawing. 

The upper works and hull are held together with 1" 
brads and glue, in such a manner that the gun turret is 
equally distant from the ends and sides of the hull. 

The pieces which hold the wheels are made 
%"x^4"x4" and are nailed and glued in place, Z l / 2 " from 
bow and stern. 

The wheels are 3g" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are 
held by shingle nails driven into the axle in such a way 
that they will turn freely. 

The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored ex- 
actly in their centers with a bit a little larger than the 
nail to be used. 

After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats 
of black or battle ship gray paint. 



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SNOW SHOVEL AND PERISCOPE 



CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL. 

This problem is simple and of interest to young peo- 
ple during early winter. (Plate 20.) 

The handle may be made square in section first and 
then gradually rounded with a plane and then filed and 
sanded ; or a discarded handle from some other imple- 
ment may be utilized. The handle should be 28" long, 
and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11^" 
from one end. This is to reinforce the handle where the 
saw cut comes. This cut is made directly along the cen- 
ter of the handle and stops 11" from the end. If this cut 
is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when 
the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will 
not be in balance. 

The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, 
and the lower end is cut at an angle to fit the surface 
of the shovel. 

The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut 
to fit the angle formed by the spreading sides of the 
shovel. 

This is held in place by 1}4" No. 8 round-head screws 
with washers, as indicated. 

The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, 
if possible, I X"x8"xlO^", and the front end cut an angle 
which is reinforced with a piece of zinc, 3^"x8", bent 
over and held by rivets and washers, as shown. 



The brace under the handle is cut ^"xl^"x8" and 
then planed from an upper edge to within an inch of the 
opposite lower edge and secured in place with screws. 
The handle is attached to the blade with rivets and wash- 
ers, as shown on the drawing. 

THE PERISCOPE. 

This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a 
scientific principle. 

For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing 
(Plate 21), two pieces of looking glass must be first cut 
2^"x2%". 

Pieces A are cut y 8 "x2"x.4%" ; pieces B are ^"x2%" 
x4%"; pieces C, %"xl%"x2%"; pieces D, ^"x2"xl7' 4 " ; 
pieces E, ^"x2%"xl8%"; and pieces F, ^"x2j4"xl8%". 

Two grooves Y% deep, and of a width to receive the 
thickness of the glass used, should be cut at an angle of 
45 degrees, where indicated on the drawing. This groove 
is cut in pieces A only. 

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 
sandpaper and finished with No. 0. Assemble, as shown 
on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads. 

The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever 
finish is used should be of a dark color as best suited for 
a periscope. 



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DOLL'S IRONING BOARD 




DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. 

(Size A.) 

This problem has proven very popular in toy-making 
classes and has been one of the best sellers at toy sales. 
It folds up compactly and is strong and serviceable. 



Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three 
sizes for children of varying ages. 

Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, 
and the material is prepared as follows : 

The top is first made of y 2 " lumber and is 6" wide and 
20" long. Set the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an 
arc just touching the end and two sides of the board. 
Do the same on the other end. using a 2]// radius. 

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plane carefully just to the lines all around. The turning 
saw may be used on the ends. 

Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is 
to be uppermost. 

The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones 
being y 2 "xl"xl9" and the two shorter ones y 2 "xl"xl8j4.". 

One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with 
a \y 2 " radius, at the extreme end. The other ends of the 
legs are cut off at an agle, as shown in the drawing. 

Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 
W from the ends with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of 
similar size is bored 8J4" from the one previously bored. 
These holes are all y 2 " from the edges. 

On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 
8%" from the rounded end. 

The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which 
itself is screwed to the underside of the top of the board, 
as shown. This cleat is %"x\y 8 "x4y 2 " and is glued and 
held to the top by \y A " flat-head screws, two of them 
being sufficient. These are countersunk. 

The separating piece at the other end of the long legs 
is y 2 "x\"xA 9/16" and is held in place by 1%" brads and 
glue. It is attached 2" from the ends. 

Two separating pieces are next made for the short 
legs. Vk"xl"x3^", and these are attached in the same 
manner as the piece between the long legs. 



A cleat %"xl"x3 7/16" is attached with glue and 
\y 2 " flat-head screws, 2" from the small end of the board. 
This holds the short legs in position. 

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. y 2 
sandpaper before being assembled. No further finish is 
necessary. 

DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. 

(Size B.) 

The method of constructing this board is identical 
with the method suggested for board A. The difference 
is in the size of the pieces. (Plate 23.) 

This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from 
four to six years of age. 

The top is y s " thick, 7y A " wide and 24^" long. 

The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the 
same way as in the preceding problem. 

The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones 
being 9/16"xl^"x24", and the shorter 9/16"xl^"x22}4". 

One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers 
at 9/16" and cutting to the line and cutting the opposite 
ends at an angle, as shown in the drawing. 

Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of 
the long legs, y 8 " from the ends and a similar hole is 
bored 9y 2 " from the hole previously bored. These holes 
are all 9/16" in from the edges. 



P/afe £3 



DOLLS /ROtt/r/G BOARD 

(j/Ze O) 




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DOLL'S IRONING BOARD 



On the short legs the only holes bored are made with 

the same bit, 9}i" from the rounded ends. 

The long legs are attached to a cleat by V/ 2 " No. 10 
round-head blue screws, with washers under both the 
heads of the screws and between the screws and the 
cleat. 

The cleat is Ji"xiy 8 "x57/ 8 " and is glued and screwed 
to the under side of the top with V/ 2 " No. 8 flat-head 
screws. 

These are countersunk. 

The separating piece at the other end of the long legs 
is ^"xl^"x5 15/16" and is held in place by \%" brads 
and glue, and is attached 3" from the end. 

Two separating- pieces are next made for the short 
legs, H"xiy s "x4y 2 ", and these are attached in the same 
way as the piece between the longer legs. 

A cleat 7/ s "xiy 4 "x4 7/16" is attached with glue and 
1M" flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. 
This holds the short legs in position. Refer to the detail 
on the drawing of the size A ironing board (Plate 22) 
for the method of making the button which holds the 
board rigid. 

All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. y 2 
sandpaper before being assembled. 
No further finish is necessary. 



DOLL'S IRONING BOARD. 

(Size C.) 
The method of constructing this size board is similar 
to the other two types. (Plate 24.) 

This size board is suitable for children from six to 
eight years of age. 

The top is made }i" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The 
dividers are set with a 4><" radius and an arc is struck 
to touch the end and two sides of the board. A similar 
arc is struck at the opposite end with a Zy 2 " radius. 

These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the 
outline is cut with a saw and finally planed to the lines. 
The curved ends can be cut with a turning saw and 
finished with a chisel and file. 

The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and 
sandpaper. 

The legs are next cut to size, two being y"xiy 4 "x 
27y%", and the other two ^"xl>4"x29". 

One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 
S»" radius, at the extreme end. The other ends of the 
legs are cut at an agle, as shown in the drawing. 

Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 
Ys," from the ends, of a size that will take a 1 ; <4" No. 10 
round-head blue screw. 

Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. 



P/ate 24 



DOLLS /ROrt/116 30ARD 




hzoc/ tfae scmivj 
y///7 washers 



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4* /j roun'd heoe/ 
store bo/fc yy/tf? washers 




DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK 



These holes are all y$" from the edges. 

On the other two legs the only two holes necessary 
are bored UjA" from the rounded ends. 

The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat 
j which itself is screwed to the underside of the board, 
Ay," from the large end. This cleat is l"xl^"x6?4" and 
is held in place with glue and \:/ A " flat-head screws, coun- 
I tersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient. 

The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 
! W'x\y"x6 13/16". and is held in place by \y 2 " brads and 
glue, and is attached 3y 2 " from the ends. 

Two separating pieces are next made for the long 
legs, y"xiy 4 "x5y", and these are attached in the same 
manner as the pieces between the other set of legs. 

A cleat l^"xl^j"x5 3/16" is attached with glue and 
1 2" flat-head screws, 5y 2 " from the small end of the board. 
This holds the short legs in position. 

The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size 
A ironing board (Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and 
prevents the board from collapsing. 

All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with 
No. y sandpaper before being assembled. 
No further finish is necessary. 

DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK. 
This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and 
requires some skill in assembling. (Plate 25.) 




riayiiiK II,, us- is real fun with such a dolls' clothes 
rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder. 

The four legs are cut y s "xy"xlS" and each end is 
rounded by first striking semicircles on the ends, using 
a 3/s" radius, and then finishing with a chisel carefully 
to the line. 

Holes are bored in these legs with a y" bit in the 
following places: y" from the top, 4j/ s " beyond this, 
3y" beyond this, and 1%" beyond this. Extreme care 
must be taken not to split the wood. Bore through from 
one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come 
through, then remove the bit and bore back from the 
other side. 



P/ote £5, 




CHILD'S WASH BENCH 



Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 
;Hs"xj4"x6" a °d two ys"x}i"x7". These are also rounded 
on both ends. Holes are bored }■$" from each end of all 
of these and also half way between their ends, as shown 
in Plate 25. 

These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 
sandpaper. 

The cross pieces are cut from J4" dowels as follows ■ 
Four pieces, 8y" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 
7 l / 4 " long. 

The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points 
a, b, c and d, Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dow- 
els go at points e, f, g, h, i, and j. The single short dowel 
goes at point k. 

Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four 
top pieces are placed on the correct dowels. Hold all 
dowels, which are not at movable points, with y brads. 

Be sure every piece is in its proper position before 
driving in the brads and then be positive that no brad is 
being driven at a point where the dowel must be free to 
move in the hole. It is always best to assemble the rack' 
completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly 
just where the brads are to be placed. 

No further finish is necessary. 



CHILD'S WASH BENCH. 

This bench may be made in various sizes to fit dif- 
ferent heights of children. The top consists of three slats 
and for the size bench shown in Plate 26, the slats are 
made y$"xiy"xl8". These slats have screw holes bored 
2y$" from the ends and )<&" from the edges, as shown. 
These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head 
screws. 

Two braces are made ; 4"x / I 4"x8". These are to sup- 
port the slats. One inch from one end of these braces, 
and y" from the edges, a hole is bored' with a y" bit. 
The same distance from the other end a similar hole is 
bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, 
to receive and support the dowel rod. 

The legs of the bench are cut y"xl"x\2y". One-half 
inch from one end a hole is bored with a y" bit. One 
and one-half inches from the other end a similar hole is 
bored and 7" from the same end the third hole is bored, 
making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring 
these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. 
Bore through on one side until the spur of the bit just 
starts through on the opposite side. Remove the bit and 
place the spur point in the small hole made by the spur 
and bore back in the opposite direction. 



P/ote 26 



C/i/LDS WAStl-BEIICtl. 



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CHILD'S STEP LADDER 



The two cross slats forming the braces are ^s"x%"x 
13". A center lap joint is made by cutting through half 
way on both slats at such an angle as will cause the 
outer edge of the slats to be about five inches apart. 
The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle 
as will make them flush with the sides of the legs and 
small holes drilled and countersunk so that they may be 
attached with y" No. 4 flat-head screws. 

Two }$" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 
I2y 2 " long and the other 14" long. 

These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 
y" brads, care being taken not to nail where there is to 
be a moving joint. 

All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. \U 
sandpaper. 

No other finish is necessary. 

CHILD'S STEP LADDER. 

This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the 
one shown here being suitable for children up to seven 
or right years of age. (Plate 27.) 

The two front legs should be cut first, %"x2 J /4"y2l" . 
It will lie noticed that the two ends are cut off at an 
alible. This angle is obtained by measuring back on one 
side 1" and drawing to this point from the opposite cor- 
ner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut 
them in a miter-box. 



The two rear legs, or braces, are cut %"xl}/s"xl7j4", 
and the two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked 
out by setting the dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" 
radius and striking the curve tangent to the sides and 
ends of the legs. 

Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from 
one end of the rear legs and 134'' from the other end, as 
indicated, care being taken not to split the wood. 

The top step is next made y$"x5y"x9y", and the top 
edges slightly rounded. 

Two holes are bored with a small drill, l 1 .-/' from the 
ends of this step and 1" from the rear and front edges 
of both ends. These should be countersunk. Later, when 
assembled, this top is screwed to the braces with 1" No. 
6 flat4iead screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 
27.) 

Two braces are next made y$"x2"x5y" ', and are cut 
off at either end at the same angle as were the ends of 
the front legs. These are attached to the inside of the 
legs, at the top, as shown in the side view, with four 
1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken 
to get them just even with the front and top sides of the 
legs. Before the braces are attached a hole should be 
bored with a No. 8 bit ^s" from the top edge and 1" 
from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel stick on 
which the rear leg swings. 



P/ofe 27. 



C/y/LDJ JTPPIADDPP 




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S/P£ MEW 



CHILD'S STEP LADDER 



While boring this hole the end should be held with 
a clamp to prevent splitting. 

The two lower steps are next made. These are y s " 
thick and are cut 3" wide. The width is greater than 
is needed, and is provided that the steps may be planed 
even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are cut 
8" in length. 

The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps 
to set into the legs, and this requires considerable care. 

The lower step is 5%" from the lower end of the legs. 
This dimension is measured off on each leg, and a line is 
drawn parallel with the lower end of the leg. This may 
be done by either using a T bevel, set at the angle of 
the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 534", may 
be measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn 



a line through this point parallel to the edge of the leg. 
Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as 
far as this last line and cut the wood out with a half-inch 
chisel. 

If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight 
amount from the surface of the step until it fits snugly 
into the groove. 

End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way 
and the second step is placed in a like manner, 6%" 
above the lower step. 

If the drawing is examined, as these directions for 
placing the steps are read, the explanation will be greatly 
simplified. 

The two narrow cross braces are next made, %"x5^"x 



3ss. . 15%". These are crossed at their middle point in a mid 

Next take the lower step and mark one end A and d,e " la P J oint > a groove being cut half through each piece 



pv. other end B. Place the end A. of the lower step, 
evenly on this line and make a mark above the first line 
a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove 
is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so 
that, in case the saw cut is made a little wide, the step 
will not be likely to fit loosely. 

Square lines across both edges of the edge from the 
end of the lines previously drawn and measure down 
from the surface a distance of y" on the edges. Draw 



wide enough to insure a tight joint. These braces are 
attached to the rear legs, 2y 2 " from their lower ends, 
with y 4 " No. 6 flat-head. screws, the holes being previ- 
ously bored and countersunk. 

Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the 
legs. 

Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in 
the legs, y 2 " in from the sides, as shown. These holes 
are for the round-head screws which hold the steps in 



P/o/e 2 a. 



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place. The steps are held in the grooves of the legs 
with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. 

The dowel sticks are now cut 8^4" long from a y 2 " 
dowel and, after all pieces of wood are carefully sanded 
with No. 1 sandpaper, the step ladder is assembled. 

A %" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear 
legs so that it will penetrate and hold the dowel in place. 

A piece of small chain should be fastened to each 
front and rear leg, as shown, of a length sufficient to 
have the front legs of the ladder set flat on the ground. 
Also take care that the two chains are even with each 
other and parallel with the ground. No further finish 
is required. 

DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER. 

While this table may be made in various sizes, the 
one shown in the accompanying drawing has proven 
very popular. 

The Jour legs are first made %"xl%"xl2". Measure 
down 3" from one end and taper the legs equally from 
this point to a width of Ji" at the opposite ends, as 
shown. 

The two side rails are made y 2 "x2%"x6y 2 ". The two 
front rails above and below the drawer are cut r/ >"x l A"x 
12". 

On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are 



DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER 



located %" from the top and lower edges and half way 
between the sides. An inch brad is driven in a short dis- 
tance at these points, and the head is cut off about J4" 
above the surface of the wood. These ends are now 
placed so that their upper edges are even with the top 
of the legs. Press down lightly on the rails and a mark 
will be made on the surface of the legs. 

Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 
J4" bit, V/ A " deep. 

The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner 
and the holes are bored. 

The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces 
of wood jointed and glued together, and reinforced with 
dowels. 

The finished dimensions are JHs"xl2"xl9". 

Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two 
side rails even with their tops, and screws are later put 
through these from their under side to hold the top in 
place. A .;4" No. 6 screw is placed in the center of the 
upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place. 
(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the 
top.) 

Two strips of wood y 2 " wide, and thick and long 
enough to fit tightly between the front and rear rails, 
are made to serve as drawer slides. 



TOY CRAFT 



Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of 
the end rails to cause the drawer to run evenly. These 
strips are just thick enough to bring their surface even 
with the edge of the leg. 

All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then as- 
sembled with glue, screws, and brads as directed, the 
rails and legs being clamped for several hours to insure 
a tight fit. 

If the various parts of the table have been accurately 
made, the drawer should be now constructed to the 
dimensions called for in the drawing. If there has been 
any error in the making of the several pieces, of course 
the drawer must be made to fit the space in that indi- 
vidual table. 

The drawer front is %"xl J x "xl2". The sides are 
J4"xl%"xll^". These dimensions may all have to be 
trimmed down somewhat to secure an easy sliding fit. 
The drawer construction is clearly shown in the sketch. 
Bottom pieces of J4" wood are cut to fit. and after sand- 
ing, all pieces are glued and bradded together. 

Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be 
turned on the lathe or made by hand, and placed as indi- 
cated. 

As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary 
kitchen table it may be left unfinished. 



COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE. 

This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in 
Plate 30, makes a very artistic and interesting problem 
in toy-making. 

The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of 
oak and stained a mission brown. They may also be 
made of soft wood and stained or painted. Directions for 
staining may be found in the front part of the book. 

The top (Plate 29) is made jHs"xll"xl6" and, if a piece 
of wood 11" wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces 
will have to be joined. (See method of joining wood on 
page 18.) 

The four uprights are made l"xl"x6J4 ", and the four 
cross pieces ^"xl"x8". 

The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as 
shown, and notches are cut l%" from each end, %" deep, 
to receive the ends of the upright. Care must be taken 
to get a snug fit. It is better to have the notches a trifle 
too small than too large. If cut a little small, the up- 
rights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a 
slight amount from their £dg?*-v... .. 

Four bottom pieces are made %" xlf^'xl 1 -^";./ to be 
attached to the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 
%" projection all around. They are fastened with V 2 " 
brads and glue. When attaching, see that the grain of 



Phfe £9. 



COLOH/AL DOLL'5 TABLE 



7 7^ 










7 



J/DE WEW 



E/VO V/£bV 



TOY CRAFT 



the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. 
On account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have 
to be bored for the brads. If no small drill is at hand a 
brad may be used as a drill. 

Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, }£" 
from their ends. These are countersunk to receive 24" 
No. 6 flat-head screws, when assembling, and are to hold 
the top in place. 

Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 
\%" from each end of the four cross pieces, which brings 
the holes in the center of each notch. These holes are 
also countersunk. 

The long lower brace is made 5/16"x2j4"xl2". When 
assembling, this piece is located as shown in the drawing 
and is held in place with glue and J4" brads. 

Sand all pieces carefully with No. 1 sandpaper first 
and finish with No. 0. 

If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain 
the pieces before assembling. Assemble as previously 
described, using glue where necessary and turning all 
screws up tightly. Apply final finish as desired. 

COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR. 

This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in 
the preceding drawing (Plate 29), and at least two chairs 
should be made to form the set. 



The sides are first cut from y%" material, 5" wide and 
11J4" long. 

A freehand curve, following the general design of the 
one shown, should be traced on a piece of paper, cut to 
the above size. After the outline is satisfactory, the de- 
sign should be traced on the wood preparatory to cutting 
out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, 
cutting to the line for a finish. Place the two sides to- 
gether to see if they match. Variations should be 
trimmed down so that the pieces are exact duplicates. 

The back is next made, ^"x5^"xl0^4". 

The seat is made Y&'x.A 1 /^''^ 1 /?." > an d the front board 
of the seat measures %"x3^"x5^". The seat is rounded 
on the front edge, and the front board of seat is beveled 
at top and bottom to set snugly under the seat, at the 
slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by measuring 
in ljHi" from the front, as shown in the side view. 

Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the 
sides and back first, with glue and %" brads. Set these 
brads below the surface and fill the cavity with hard 
beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and 
then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown 
in the drawing. 

Finish as desired. Sec Pages 15 to 18 for method of 
'staining and painting. 



P/ofe JO. 



COWrf/AL DOLLS CL1ALR 




morir v/nw 




J/£>£ 1//£IA/ 



TOY CRAFT 



RING-THE-HOOK GAME. 

This game is very simple in construction yet affords 
a great deal of pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.) 

The desired outline, the dimensions for which are 
given in the drawing, is sketched on a piece of folded 
paper, as is shown by the sketch, and the design is then 
cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock 
^"xll"xl2". 

The cutting should be roughly done with a turning 
saw and finished carefully to the line with a chisel and 
file. 

A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed 
on the front edge. 

The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 
sandpaper first, and then firished with No. 0. The final 
finish may be several coats of shellac or two coats of a 
bright lively color of paint. If a shellac finish is used, 
the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India 
ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry. and the second 
coat should be applied over this. 

If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put 
on with the ink after the final coat is dry. 

Hooks are located at the various points shown on the 
drawing, and pains should be taken to get them in per- 
pendicular to the surface of the board. Place a screw- 
hook at the top to hang up by. 



The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings 
and ten should constitute a set. 

The board should be placed on the wall, about five 
feet from the floor and the contestants should stand 
about six feet from it. 

The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that 
they will land over the hooks. The best results are ob- 
tained by holding the ring between the thumb and the; 
first two fing-ers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in 
such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. 
With a little practice considerable accuracy can be de- 
veloped in placing the rings. 

A score of one hundred should constitute a game. 

FIVE POST RING TOSS. 

Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it 
never loses its attraction for many young people, and 
older ones as well. 

The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying 
plate is a little variety from the regular form, each post 
being painted and numbered with the points scored by 
ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.) 

The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the?, 
ring falling on this causing a loss of five points. 

The rings, five in number, are painted at their join- 
ing points with colors similar to the posts. If a ring 



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falls over a post of the same color as that painted on the 
ring the score is doubled. A black ring on the black post 
doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor 
about eight feet from the contestants. The best results 
can be obtained by holding the rings by the thick, heavy 
part, parallel to the floor, and tossing quite high in order 
that they may fall flat from a point above the posts. 

The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly 
in a mortise, and are removable so that they may be 
taken out when not in use. The rings may be made of 



various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very sat- 
isfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using 
chair spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily 
bent, and may be bought of any firm dealing in uphol- 
stery and chair-seating materials. A piece about 17" long 
is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch and 
held with two Vi" brads, cleated on the underside, as 
shown. Wrap with white friction tape. 

The base of the ring toss is first cut %"xl5"x20". The 
center of each side and end is located and these points are 
connected, forming a diamond shape. Cut to this line and 
plane the edges smooth. Plane a %" chamfer around the 
upper edge 

Post A is made l".\l"xl 1 \j" ; posts B and C are l"xl"x 
834"; post I). I"xl"x5%"; and post E, l"xl"x6^". All of 
these posts are chamfered about }i" at the top. 

It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the 
side view, that each post is an inch square for a certain 
distance up and from that point they taper to y 2 " square 
at the top. These measurements are figured from the 
shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a 
1 2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will 
be y 2 " square and Y\ long. 

All holes or mortises are located l J />" directly in from 
the corner or point at which they rest, except the center 
post, which is at the center point of the board. These 



P/afe 32. 



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TOY CRAFT 



mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet allowing for the 
removal of the uprights when not in use. 

The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but 
may be changed to suit the individual taste. After paint- 
ing or shellacking the board the first coat, the numbers 
should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and 
then the second coat applied. 

BEAN BAG GAME. 

This is another very popular and interesting game 
and gives the girls in the domestic science course a little 
opportunity to show their skill in making the bags. 
These should be cut so that they will finish about four 
inches square and one end left open so that they may be 
filled about three-fourths full of beans, peas or small peb- 
bles. The end is then sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any 
odd pieces of cloth may be used for the bags. 

The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up 
from two or more boards in order to have the finished 
size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate 33.) Half inch bass 
or whitewood is suitable. 

A piece of paper should be cut 20"x24" and folded so 
that it is 12"x20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut 
and unfold and lay on the board and trace around this. 
Cut to the line, using a turning saw and chisel and per- 
haps a wood file on the curves. 

The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. 




The centers are first obtained, and then the widths and 
lengths are measured from these center lines. Holes are 
next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a J4" bit, 
and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out 
the pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first 



P/ofe 33 



3£An DA6 6AH£ 




rRonr i//ew 



J/D£ V/EW 



TOY CRAFT 



be unfastened at one end, inserted in the hole and re- 
tightened on the opposite side. Finish carefully to the 
line with chisel and file. 

A small block y 2 "xiy 2 "x2y" is attached to the back 
of the board with %" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to 
hold the hinge. 

The long brace is made I / 2 "x2 l /s"xl8 I / 2 " and is held to 
the small block by the hinge spoken of previously. A 
screw-eye is placed about 2" from the lower end of this 
brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar 
screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 
2" from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The 
cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the 
board to tip at about 60 degrees. 

After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 
sandpaper first and then finished with No. 0, the whole 
board should receive a coat of white shellac. After allow- 
ing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down 
lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 
lettered on with black waterproof India ink. Apply an- 
other coat of shellac, or two more if necessary. 

Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in 
which case the numbers should be put on with paint of 
a contrasting color to show up well. 

The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces 



made the same as those on the Dart Game Board. While 
this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and 
wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory. 

DART BOARD GAME. 

This game has proven very popular, not only with 
the young folks, but with the grown-ups as well. Any 
game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a 
strong appeal to both boys and girls as well. 

The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of 
soft wood — bass, pine or white wood is suitable — and cut 
to 15" wide by 2iy>" long, from %" material. The top 
edge is chamfered %". 

The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded 
and given a coat of white shellac. While this is drying, 
the rear supporting braces may be gotten out. The main 
support is %"x2^"xl9". A hole is bored with a No. 10 
bit, 1 9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out y&" 
wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing 
for detail. A piece of y" dowel is glued in the end to re- 
inforce the piece, as shown. 

The smaller piece Y is cut %"x^"xl7" and is held to 
piece X by a quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup 
hook is screwed into the end which is connected with a 
brass screw-eye placed in the back of the board, 2y" 
from the bottom edge. 



DART BOARD GAME 



75 




The Dart Board in Use. 

The small block X is %"xl I ^"x2j/6" and is attached, 
as indicated, with glue and two l%" No. 8 flat-head 
screws. 

The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge 
and 1" flat-head screws. 

This folding arrangement has proven very satisfac- 
tory. The board packs nicely and stands rigidly when 
in position for playing. However, a simpler bracing may 
be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 
%"x2^"xl9", with a screw-eye on the underside from 



which a wire can run to a similar screw-eye on the back 
of the board. The wire can be adjusted so that the board 
will slope at the proper angle. 

After being sanded, the surface of the board should 
be given a coat of shellac and after drying should be 
rubbed down with No. 'S sandpaper. 

The circles should now be struck with a compass and 
waterproof ink, the diameters given, using a fairly heavy 
line. After the ink is dry give another coat of shellac. 
When this is dry the board is ready to have the colors 
applied to the circles. 

First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting 
just to the circle edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, 
and then paint circle B yellow and circle D green. When 
these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all the circles 
again with ink. 

Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the 
game. It will be noticed that the small outside circles 
are minus numbers. 

Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of 
shellac. 

Darts. 

The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most 
satisfactory ones are turned out on the lathe to the di- 
mensions shown. A \y 2 " brad should be driven half its 



P/ofe, 34. 



DART 6 -A/IE 'BOARD 




fftOflT V/CW. 



SUPPORT X 
A/VD DRAC£ r 



DARTS AND WIND MILL 



made and the 
Birch or maple 



about ten 
contestant 
The score 
ine should 



length into the rounded end, the head cut off with cut- 
ting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file. 

At the opposite end two holes should he drilled of a 
size large enough to receive the ends of wing or tail 
feathers of some accommodating fowl. These should be 
dipped in glue and pressed into place. 

About six of these darts should 
wooden parts painted in bright color 
are good woods to use. 

The board should be placed on the Moor 
feet from a given station point, and each 
should be allowed to throw the six darts. 
should then be counted. Darts landing on a 
be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on 
and sticking to another, doubles the score of the first 
dart. Darts not sticking in the board are not allowed to 
be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts lose 
their score. 

One thousand points should constitute a game. 

The points of the darts may be sharpened from time 
to time with a fine file. 

WIND MILL. 

This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the 
shed or garage where the wind will have a chance to re- 
volve the brightly colored wheel at a good rate. It also 
serves as a weather vane. 




The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of 
four pieces of half inch stock, two being 3^"x4j4" and 
two 2V 2 "x4}i". The two larger sides taper to 2 l />" wide 
at the top and the two smaller pieces to y 2 " . The top 
piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood 1J4" 
thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several 



P/ofe JS. 



W/PiD MILL 



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thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3y 2 "x3 l / 2 " 
and a line is drawn around the edge %" from the lower 
sides. From this line the roof tapers to a point directly 
over the middle of the piece, as shown. 

The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 
>4"xl I 4"xl0^4". Two holes are bored and countersunk 
for the screws which hold it to the mill base. A similar 
hole is bored from the opposite end for the screw which 
holds in place the round piece A. 

The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 
yg"x2y 2 ". A hole is bored J /t" deep with a quarter inch 
bit on the edge. The piece C is a quarter inch dowel, 
i 7%" long. A hole is bored with a quarter inch bit in 
the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This 
hole is }i" deep. 

The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, 
being held with glue. 

The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bot- 
tom of the mill with glue and 1" brads, is made y 2 "x4"x5". 
The small piece, on which the vanes of the mill turn, is 
made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut \y 2 " long. A 
hole is bored in the roof piece y 2 " deep to receive this. 
A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel 
to receive a V/ 2 " No. 8 round-head screw on which the 
vanes revolve. 



A piece is now cut %"x%"x7" to serve as the support- 
ing piece on which the whole mill turns. On one end a 
notch is cut, as shown in the drawing, 3/ 8 " deep and \ l / 2 " 
long. Two screw holes are bored in this notch to allow 
the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the 
opposite end a hole is bored in the center, %" deep and 
with a drill that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very 
tightly. One of these nails should be driven in and the 
headed end cut off so as to allow a projection of 1" be- 
yond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should 
be filed smooth and round. 

A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as 
shown in the drawing, extending through both pieces 
and large enough for the nail to turn freely within. A 
washer should be placed over this to insure the mill 
turning easily. 

^The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 
34"xl"x5y 2 ". Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping 
in one direction at one end and in the opposite direction 
at the other, allowing at least %" for the thickness. Con- 
siderable pains should be used in shaping these vanes to 
insure even balance. File and sand these smooth. 

A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of 
each vane, cutting half through on each piece and making 
a smooth, flush fit. Hold the vanes together with glue 
and y 2 " brads at this point and carefully bore a hole at 



TOY CRAFT 



the center large enough to allow a \y 2 " No. 8 round-head 
screw to turn easily. 

A small washer is placed under the head of the screw 
and one between the rear of the vanes and the end of the 
supporting dowel. Turn the screw up tight enough to 
allow the vanes to clear nicely. 

All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 
sandpaper first and finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces 
before assembling. 

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. 
WIND MILL. 
(Type B.) 

This is another interesting action toy and makes a 
very pleasing addition to the top of a garage or barn. 
(Plate 36.) Children also enjoy toys of this sort at the 
beaches where they can build up little villages in the 
sand. 

The four long uprights are made ' /'x 1 L ."xlO". The 
top piece, which is eight sided, is first made ^"x3^"x 
3_ J 4"- Then Y\' is measured in from each corner and 
these points are connected and the lines cut carefully 
with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a hit a 
little smaller than a 1?4" No. 8 screw. 

The piece to which the long uprights are attached is 
next made, y 2 "x2)4"x2%". Measure in from each corner, 
on the upper surface, -Hi", and from each corner on the 



lower edge measure in l / 2 " . Draw these sloping lines 
from top to bottom points and saw these corner pieces 
out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this 
piece similar to the hole bored in the previous piece. 

Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 
\Y\ brads, trimming the top ends of the uprights with a 
chisel and file until they are flush with the surface of the 
top piece. 

Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9j^" 
apart from outside to outside, as shown. Mark off points 
on the inside edges 4" up from the bottom ends and 7J4" 
above the first marks. These points are to locate the 
places where the cross pieces go. 

Cut the eight cross braces }4"xy 2 " and sufficiently 
long to fit nicely at these points between the uprights. 
It will be noticed that they will have to be cut at a slight 
angle. Attach these braces with glue and 1J4" brads, 
seeing that they are all even and parallel with the floor 
when setting upright. 

The angle braces are made ^"xj^'xll" and cross each 
other with a halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut 
at an angle to conform to the slope of the uprights and 
are attached to them by 1" brads and glue. 

Piece E is now made, l%"xlj4" x 2", and is tapered 
to Y\ square at the upper end. This is done by meas- 
uring in J4" from each upper corner and drawing to the 






P/ofe 36. 



/S//ow method 
of construct/on 
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TOY CRAFT 



lower corners and cutting to the line. A small hole is 
bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw 
which holds piece B in place. 

Piece B is made ->i"x^"x5>4" and has a slot cut in 
it, *4" wide and 2y s " long, as shown. The inside end 
of the slot is cut at a slight angle to receive the slope of 
tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3%" from the slot end of 
this piece, of a size to turn freely on a \y>" No. 8 round- 
head screw. 

Tail C is made ^"x4"x6" and then ]/ 2 " is measured 
up from the lower right end corner and %" measured 
in from this point toward the left and a dot is placed. 
Draw lines from this dot to the lower-left-hand corner 
and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of these 
corners, using a J / 2 " radius and carefully finish to the 
lines all around. 

The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure 
a close fit and proper balance. Two pieces are cut 
7/ s "yiiy 4 "x7". The method of forming the vanes will be 
more easily understood by referring to the detail, where 
every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are 
joined with a middle lap joint, which requires consid- 
erable skill in forming. Each piece is cut half way 
through at its middle point, seeing that the groove is no 
wider than the width of the piece that goes within it. 



The two vanes are joined with glue and four %" 
brads. 

A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn 
easily on a \y 2 " No. 8 round-head screw. 

Sand all pieces well with No. y sandpaper. 

Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color 
scheme and attach the tail C to piece B with glue and 
)A" brads. 

The vanes A are attached to piece B with a iy 2 " 
round-head screw, with washers under the screw head 
and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B is attached 
to block E with a \y 2 " round-head screw, with washers 
under the screw head and between B and E. 

Have all movable parts so that they will move freely. 

A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each 
leg to secure the mill to the desired location. 

SAND OR WATER MILL. 

This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand 
or water may be used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is 
very simple to construct and is made as follows: The 
base is constructed of y 2 " pine, 7y 2 " wide and 7y 2 " long; 
and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the 
corners, are y 2 "xl"xl". The two uprights are ^4"x%"x 
Syy, and the two cross supports at the tops measure 
34"x%"x2/ 2 ". 



P/afe -3 7 



SATID OR WATER T1/LL 




J/DE V/EW 



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TOY CRAFT 



Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that 
hold the uprights in place. These holes are 2y 4 " from 
the end and 2^" from the sides. 

Holes are bored in the little top braces )A" from the 
two ends and one just in the middle, or iy 4 " from the 
ends. These are for the screws that hold the braces to 
the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are bored 
with a drill suitable to take iy 4 " No. 8 flat-head screws, 
and all are countersunk on the side where the screw 
enters. 

The top piece is made J/4"x5*4"x5*/>" with the two 
front corners slightly rounded, as shown. 

A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 
\y 2 " from the front edge and 2^" from the sides. 

A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3 l / 2 " from the 
lower end, of a size that will insure a driving fit to the 
wire used, in this case being a piece of No. 12 copper- 
dipped, 4^4" long. 

A piece of J4" dowel is cut off %" long and a similar 
hole is bored about two-thirds of the way through, as 
shown. 

Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for 
the quills, which are later glued in place. Feathers from 
the poultry yard will furnish these. 

Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assem- 



ble the top, the two uprights and the two cross supports. 
Paint these two coats of red paint. 

Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 
•U" brads and paint two coats of yellow. Paint the tun- 
nel two coats of bright green. 

While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. 
The piece through which the wire axle runs is ^4"x34"x 
2J4". The four blades are y 4 "x2y 4 "x2y 4 ". 

After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the 
center piece, nail the blades to the center piece, in the 
position shown in the side view. Use y 4 " brads and glue 
for fastening the blades. Paint two coats of yellow. 

When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, 
finish the assembly, using \y 4 " No. 8 flat-head screws 
and glue. 

The toy is now ready to operate. 

DOLL'S CRADLE. 

A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for 
a doll sixteen or seventeen inches in length. 

The two sides should be first made %"x6y 2 "x20". 
These are later beveled slightly on their lower edge to 
conform to the slope of the head and foot board. 

Measure from one end along the top edge 7 l / 4 " and 
from the other end 11%". From this last end the width 
of the side is cut down to 4*4", as far as the 11 54" meas- 






WLL5 CRADLE 




6/DE WEW 



£/YD WEW 



TOY CRAFT 



urement previously made. Connect the point which is 
7]/n" from the left end with the point which is 1154" from 
the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 
degrees, as is shown in the side view. Slightly round the 
corners, as indicated. 

The head hoard is next made \ o".x7"x8 \| ". 

Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from 
either corner, and from these points draw straight lines 
to the upper corners. Cut carefully to this line. This 
makes the lower edge 6 ; vj" long. The upper corners art- 
rounded, as shown. 

The foot hoard is made in a similar manner, first cut- 
ting it J^"x5"x8". Place the head and foot hoard together 
to sec if they exactly correspond. If not, plane or saw 
them while together so they are exactly alike, except in 
heighth. 

The four pieces so far completed may now be assem- 
bled, using glue and 1" brads. 

See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level 
surface. 

The base is next made V2"x8- ; 4"x20". The two rockers 
are cut %"x2^"xl3^". 

It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above 
size, fold across the short way and sketch on the folded 
surface one-half the rocker shape. When this has been 
done in a satisfactory manner it may be unfolded, cut out 




and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight 
shoulder of J^", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get 
them alike and make the curve such as will cause them 
to rock with a very slight pressure. 

Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2 l / 2 " 
from the ends and 1>j" from the sides. A hole is also 
bored half way between the two, as shown, and all are 
countersunk on the upper side. 

Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head 
screws. 



COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE 



Sec that they project equally on the sides and are 
square with the edges. 

Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previ- 
ously made, using 1" brads and glue. Have the base 
project equally from the upper frame on each side and 
come flush with the ends. 

All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of 
course, before assembling. 

The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is 
to be the finish, select the desired color and apply a 
priming and a finish coat. Follow directions in the front 
of the book for painting. 

COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE. 

The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in 
many ways to the one on the last plate. It is, however, 
more artistic and somewhat more difficult to make. 

Follow directions on the last plate for making rock- 
ers, base and footboard. 

The headboard is cut ]^"x8ff xlO%". 

Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown 
in the end view. At the top measure \]/j," each side of 
the center line and make a dot. At the base measure 
3^g" each side of the center line and place a dot. 

Measure 134" from the top edge, on each side. Con- 
nect these points, as shown in the end view. Cut care- 



fully to the lines. Test the head and footboard to see if 
they compare. 

Make the two sides of the cradle next y 2 "x9}4"x20" . 

Seven inches from one end and 6 1 /^" from the lower 
edge strike a circle l}&" in radius. From the lower edge 
of this circle draw a line parallel to the base. This will 
make the narrow part of the sides A 1 // wide. 

From the point directly over the center of the circle, 
square a line to the top edge of the side. The outline of 
the side is now ready to be cut out. If an expansive 
bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of the 
circle with the bit set at lj^" radius. If this bit is not 
obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or 
a turning saw after first cutting to the circle, along the 
other lines previously drawn. 

The short top edge of the sides should now be bev- 
eled to conform to the slope of the head board. 

Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping 
part of the roof. These are x /z 'x$ l A' "x/ 7 Y± ' . These must 
be planed at their top edge to quite a sharp bevel until 
they are even with the top of the head board. 

The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is ^"x 

43/Tx/fr. 

The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 
V 2 sandpaper and the sides and ends assembled with glue 
and 1" brads. 



P/afe J 9 



COL On /A L DOLL CPADLE 






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DOLL'S BED 



The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top 
piece sits flat and overhangs equally on both sides. 

Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2%" 
from the ends and l l />" from the sides. A third hole is 
bored at each end half way between the other two, as 
shown, and all are countersunk. 

Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, 
being careful that they project equally on both sides and 
are at right angles with the edges of the base. 

The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be 
painted or enameled it should first receive a priming coat 
of flat white. See directions for painting in the first part 
of the book. 

DOLL'S BED. 

The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the or- 
dinary size doll. 16" to 18" in length. 

The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones 
being %"x%"xl2" and the two short ones %"x%"x9}4". 

These should be planed up square and smooth and the 
top edges chamfered 1/16", as shown. 

The two side rails are next made y&"x2y"x20y 2 ". 

The four cross rails, two on the head board and two 
on the foot board, are made y 2 "xj4"*8H"- 

Seven slats are next made }i"xiy"x8". 

Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats 
previously made rest, are now made }i"xl"x\9y". 



Three upright slats are now made for the head board, 
two being ^"xl^4"x8", and one ^"x3"x8". Three similar 
slats are made for the foot board, two %"xl%"x5%" and 
one jHs"x3"x5}4"- 

Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross 
rails and legs are joined. Use a small drill about %" in 
diameter. 

These holes are 2y>" up from the bottom end of the 
legs and 1" down from the top ends. In assembling these 
parts, use glue, brads and iy 2 " No. 8 round-head screws, 
as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats, as indi- 
cated, using glue and iy 4 " brads. Take pains to space 
these properly and center them on the cross piece. All 
brad holes, wherever placed, should be set with a nail set 
and the hole filled with hard beeswax. 

In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on 
the corner of the bench, so as not to strain the cross piece 
or legs in pounding with the hammer. 

Next attach the long side rails, having their ends 
come flush with the outer side of the leg. Use glue and 
1" brads. See that the rails are attached square with the 
long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting rails 
(%"xl"xl9j4")' are next nailed to the lower cross pieces 
at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the 
long side rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven 



P/ote *0 



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DOLLS BED. 



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J/D£ W£W 




TWO TYPES OF STILTS 



through from the side rails into these to help secure them 
in place. 

The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and 
nailed in place with T /' brads. While nailing, place a 
block i if wood beneath the ends for a bearing. 

All pieces should have been sanded previous to assem- 
bling, and the bed may now be either stained or painted. 
If painted, a priming coat should be applied first. After 
this has dried it should be carefully sanded with No. 
sandpaper and the finish coat applied. 

Ci nsiderable care should be taken in the painting to 
insure a good, clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of 
the book for necessary instructions for painting. 

There is an opportunity here for the older sister to 
help in preparing the bedding. 

TWO TYPES OF STILTS. 

(Type A Stilt.) 

.Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination 
in walking on stilts, but they may prove a dangerous 
pastime if not strongly made. 

In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights 
are held beneath the arm pits. 

The upright pieces should be made 7 ,s"xl ! s"x5'. or 
as long as the boy desires. Hard pine or ash make 
strong, durable stilts. The edges of the upright should 




be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand nicely. 
Holes are bored with a Y\" bit, 17" from the lower end 
and 2 ] 2 " apart, as shown. The upper hole is counter- 
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The foot rests are made I"x3i^"x5" and shaped, as 
indicated on the drawing. 

They are secured to the uprights with screws and 
J4"x3" round-head stove bolts. Several holes at various 
heighths could be bored to allow of adjusting the foot 
rest to suit the user of the stilt. 

The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests 
green, or the whole can be left plain, according to the 
desires of the maker. A touch of paint, however, not 
only adds to the appearance of any article, but also pre- 
serves it and lengthens its life. 

(Type B Stilt.) 

Type B stilt (Plate 41 ) is made shorter than Type A 
and is to be strapped to the leg just above the knee. 

The uprights are I"xl3-g"x36", or longer if desired. 

Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the 
same places and of the same size as in Type A. 

A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, 
to support the feet, and another strap, long enough to go 
around the leg beneath the knee, is attached at the upper 
end, 2" from the top. 

Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit. 

A pole about seven feet long should be carried to 
balance and steady oneself. 




Two Kin. Is ..f ('.ris mii.I ;i Dump Wagon (iu front). 

CHILD'S CART. 

Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given 
here (Plate 42) is of simple construction. 

Make the side pieces first ^"x6"xl0". On one long 
edge measure in 2j^" and from this point draw a line to 
the upper corner. Cut carefully to this line. The front 
piece is made J^"x6"x6" and the end piece i/^"x6"x6^4". 
This end piece is beveled to conform to the top and bot- 
tom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view. 

The bottom piece is made }4"x6"x6 1 /2"- 



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CHILD'S CART AND DUMP WAGON 



The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 
7^"xl"x7^". This piece has two holes bored and coun- 
tersunk in it for screws, 1%" from the ends and half way 
between the sides. 

Two small blocks are made t/2"xl"x2j/2" and tapered 
m", as shown. These blocks have holes bored and coun- 
tersunk for screws. Bore the holes in such a manner 
that they will not come directly opposite each other, 
otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other. 

Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and 
countersunk on the inner side. These pieces are 3" from 
either side, the first one being 2J4" from the upper edge 
and the second an inch below the first. 

The handle measures J^"xl"x30". A hole is bored %" 
from the front end with a half-inch bit and the extreme 
end of the handle is slightly chamfered for a finish. The 
opposite end of the handle is cut at an angle of 30", as 
shown. 

A piece of dowel, l / 2 " in diameter and 3" long, is cut 
and inserted in the hole in the handle and secured by 
driving an inch brad in from the under side of the handle. 

The wheels are %"x5" and may be cut out with a 
turning saw and trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if 
a lathe is available, they can quickly be cut to size. If 
they are to be sawed out, a circle should be struck with 



a divider or compass set at a 2 l / 2 " radius and then care- 
fully cut to the line. 

The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue 
and 1J4" No. 8 flat-head screws. 

Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the cen- 
ter, using a drill slightly smaller than the screw that is 
to hold the wheels in position. Bore a hole in each wheel, 
at the center point, a little larger than the screw that 
is to be used. Attach the wheels with l l / 2 " No. 10 round- 
head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw- 
head and also between the wheel and the cart body. 
Tighten the screw just enough to allow a little play for 
the wheels to turn easily. 

Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using 
No. 1 sandpaper first and finishing with Xo. 0. Assem- 
ble the body part of the cart with glue and 1" brads. 

A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing-. 
CHILD'S DUMP WAGON. 

This toy at once appeals to the children as it only 
requires a simple turn of the crank to quickly dump the 
load of sand. 

Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 
44, while Plate 43 gives the assembly drawing. 

The two sides are first made ^"xS 1 j"xl2". and the 
two ends i/"x6"x7>4". The sides are beveled about %" 
on the lower edge so that they will conform to the angle 



Pfote 43. 



cn/LDs Dunp wAeon 




TOY CRAFT 



of the end piece. The ends taper from 7y 2 " long at the 
top to 55/&" at the bottom. This angle is obtained by 
measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the 
opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and 
slightly round the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole 
with a V 2 " bit at the point indicated. 

The bottom piece is made ^"x6^"xl2". 

Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1*4" brads 
and glue. Plane the side edges of the bottom board to 
the same angle as the slope of the sides. 

The two end uprights are now made J^"x6%"x8". 
Measure up 2*4" on the short edges and place a dot. 
Connect these points with a sloping line and saw and 
finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a J / 2 " bit 
at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 
y 2 " up from the center of the lower edge to attach brace 
block. 

Make two small supporting blocks J$"x\ vj "xl '4 ". 
Bore a J4" hole carefully in the center and drill four 
smaller holes to receive 1*4" No. 8 flat-head screws, \ s " 
from each other, as shown. Countersink these four 
holes. 

Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon 
box, 1J4" from the top edge, as shown. 

Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 
%"xl"xl" and cutting this in two diagonally from corner 



to corner. Glue and screw these blocks to the end up- 
rights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. 

The underbody should next be made y 2 "x8"xl8y2". 

•Measure in 3}4" from each corner on the long edge, 
and with the dividers set at 2 I 4", strike a quarter circle 
and connect these arcs with straight lines, making the 
width in the middle 4 J / 2 ". Saw this out with a coping 
saw and finish smoothly to the line. 

Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with 
a drill the size of a No. 6 screw. 

Countersink all holes, except the four holes which 
hold the supports for the cart handle. These four are 
not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head screws are used 
at these points. 

Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue 
and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, eight in all. 

Next make the two axles %"xl"x834" and bore and 
countersink the three holes, on the narrow edge, at the 
points indicated. Glue and screw these in place, 1J4" 
from the front and rear ends, using 1J4" No. 8 flat-head 
screws. These axles project %" beyond the sides of the 
underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to 
turn without interference. 

The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turn- 
ing saw, %" thick and all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a 
hole in their center with a drill a little larger than the 



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CHILD'S DUMP WAGON AND WHEELBARROW 



wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When assembling, 
use a washer on each side of the wheel. 

A hole should be started about y% deep in the center 
of the ends of the axle to insure the screws going in 
properly. 

The cart handle is made 3X"xl"x30", with one end 
rounded and the opposite end chamfered %". On the 
latter end measure in s/%" on the wide side and bore a hole 
carefully with a y 2 " bit. Cut a piece from a y 2 " dowel, 
3J4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place 
with glue and one %" brad. 

Bore a hole y 2 " from the rounded end with a 3/16" 
bit. 

The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 
%"x%"x2j4". A 3/16" hole is bored in the %" edge of 
these pieces, y 2 " from the end. These holes, and the hole 
in the handle, are to receive a round-head stove bolt, 
which is 3/16"x2%". 

Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the cen- 
ter of the front end of the underbody, leaving about 
1/16" space between the handle and the edges of the 
blocks for freedom of movement. 

The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the 
main piece being 1" in diameter by 4}4" long. The other 
pieces are cut from a half-inch dowel, 3" and 3%" long, 
respectively. 



On the main dowel bore holes with a y 2 " bit, %" from 
the ends, to receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert 
the 3^4" dowel and bore a small hole to receive a %" 
No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw and then in- 
sert the dowel through the front upright into the front 
supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the 
front box end. Hold in place in the block with glue and 
a 1^4" No. 8 round-head screw. 

Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip. 

A piece of y 2 " dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed 
through the rear upright, thence into the rear supporting 
block and box end. 

This is also held with glue and a iy 4 " No. 8 round- 
head screw through the block. 

Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling 
the wheels and handle. 

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW. 

(Type A.) 

The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very 
serviceable and quite easy to make, and, if the directions 
are followed carefully, the result will be a toy that will 
outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily found on the 
store shelves. 

First, make the handles %"xl^"x30". Chamfer the 
handles, as shown, for four inches from one end. 



TOY CRAFT 



The two sides are made J^"x5j4"xl5" and \y 2 " is 
measured in on one long edge and a line drawn from this 
point to the lower corner. Saw and plane to this line and 
round the upper corner with a chisel and file. 

The end is %"x5>4"x7j4". The bottom is first cut 
1 /2"xll"xl4". On one end measure in 1%" from one side 
and a like distance from the other side. Connect these 
points with the opposite extreme corners and finish to 
these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7 l /{' wide at 
the front end. 

Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue 
and \y 2 " finish nails, setting the front piece back %" 
from the end of the sides, as shown in the drawing. Set 
all nails below the surface and fill the holes with bees- 
wax. 

Place the assembled part on the handles in such a 
manner that the front end of the box part of the wheel- 
barrow is 5" from the front end of the handles, and the 
handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at the 
grip end 13" apart outside. 

While in this position, which is the permanent assem- 
bling position, mark the position of the six screw holes, 
which are bored with a drill of a size to receive a 1" 
No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes. 

• The two legs are made %"xl"x8;4" and beveled %" 
at the lower end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 




Y%" deep by \y" long. Two holes are bored, as indicated, 
to attach the leg to the handle. This is done with glue 
and 1" No. 6 round-head screws. 

A l / 2 " dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, 
and a hole is bored ^5" deep in each leg, 2y 2 " from the 
lower end. The dowel is 9" long and is held in place 
with glue, and a y" brad is driven in the leg to hold it 
firmly in place. 

A hole is bored very carefully iy" from the front end 
of the handles to receive the wheel axle. It will be no- 



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TOY CRAFT 



ticed, by referring to the top view of the drawing, that 
on account of the taper of the handles this hole must be 
bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. 
The bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen- 
penny nail to turn freely, as the axle should be made of 
a nail of this size, cut 3" long. 

The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 
%" thick and 6" in diameter. 

Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just 
used. 

Next cut two pieces from a l / 2 " dowel, jHi" long, and 
bore a similar hole exactly through their center. These 
two pieces of dowel are glued to the wheel and serve to 
make it run in the center. When assembling, place a 
small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown. 

All pieces should have been carefully sanded before 
assembling, and the wheel should be painted red and 
allowed to dry before being put in place. The remainder 
of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green. Ap- 
ply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with 
No. sandpaper before applying the second. 

CHILD'S WHEELBARROW. 

(Type B.) 
This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned 
exceptionally strong and sturdy and will stand a large 



amount of hard usage. It is made larger and stronger 
than Type A, and is naturally a little more difficult to 
make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy. 
This type has removable sideboards. 

The plate of details gives exact information how to 
make each piece, so it will not be necessary to give the 
directions here. 

After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are 
bored at the places indicated, each part should be sanded 
very carefully and made ready for assembling. 

Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the 
front brace, the wheel supports and the tops of the legs. 

The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 
l"x4", bent over the braces W, allowing a little freedom 
for removing the sideboards. Holes should be drilled in 
these braces, where shown, to receive Yi" No. 6 round- 
head screws. 

First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 
1" No. 6 flat-head screws, placing the ends of the handles 
even with the front of the bottom board and flush with 
the side edges. 

Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 
lyi" No. 8 flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 
\.y 2 " No. 8 round-head screws and washers from the out- 
side of the handle to the brace ends. 

Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" 



P/afe 47. 



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CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL 



No. 6 flat-head screws from the upper side of the bottom 
board. 

Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the 
other wheel in the same manner. 

Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indi- 
cated, with 1" No. 6 round-head screws, and place the 
top cross piece on these and hold in place with glue and 
1" round-head blue screws. 

Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush 
with the outer edges of the front braces. Place the metal 
braces over the supporting pieces and screw in place, 
using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. 

Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the 
front piece of the wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as 
shown, using 1J4" No. 8 round-head screws. 

It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in 
the leg only extends in %". Place one leg in position, 
14 1 .,' from the ends of the handles, using glue and 1" 
No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the dowel stick in 
thislleg and also in the second leg and secure the second 
legTn place. The dowel should have glue placed on its 
ends, and, after the legs are in place, an inch brad sin mid 
lie driven into each leg, through the dowel, to hold it 
firmly in place. 

The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing 



one. The wheel is painted two coats of red before being 
placed in position. 

CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL. 

This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to 
construct. 

The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver 
board, a material which is very good, as it saws easily 
and will not split. Wood, however, may be used, if pre- 
ferred. 

The details of the body and legs are full size and these 
may be transferred to the wood by the tracing method 
described at the beginning of the book. These pieces, 
when done, may be painted, if desired, and allowed to 
dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all 
necessarj holes shown in the drawing. 

The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diam- 
eter and a hole bored in the center of each of a size that 
will allow a T 4 - ' dowel to fit tightly. If no lathe is avail- 
able, the wheel can be cut out with a turning saw and 
finished with a chisel and hie. The wheels are best made 
fn ni l i " maple. Two pieces of Y% dowel are cut }4" 
long and attached y 2 " above the center of the wheel, as 
shown. This is done on both wheels, and the piece is 
attached with glue and V 2 " brads. It is a good plan to 
bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible 



Rate. 48. 




Plate 49 




TOY CRAFT 



splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the 
wheels is made 34 " X M" an d ' s glued securely in the holes 
in the wheels later. Another piece of *4" dowel is cut 
4" long, and is fitted to support the body of the clown 
on the handle. 

The handle is made %"xlj^"x30", and the grip is 
rounded and shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the oppo- 
site end of the handle a slot is cut 1/16" wide and l'j" 
long. This is to receive the strip of zinc which runs be- 
tween the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" 
material, 1" wide and 4i/>" long. Triangular pieces are 
cut from one end, 34' on a side, as shown on the detail 
sheet. This strip is held in the slot in the handle by 
first drilling through both the wood and the zinc, with 
a drill the size of a ^4" brad, and afterwards glueing and 
bradding the zinc into position with -)4" brads. A hole, 
34" in diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the 
zinc, y§ from the end and 34" from the sides. This goes 
over the axle of the wheel. 

A hole is bored with a 34" ' J it, ^H" from the end of 
the handle, as shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as 
indicated. 

A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The 
parts are now ready to sandpaper, paint, and after dry- 
ing, assemble. 




The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the 
paint has dried, the lines where the various colors join, 
should be accented with a pen, using India ink. 

The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body 
with 134" copper rivets and the lower legs are held to 
the upper by 3^" rivets. When putting the rivets in 
place, hold the end which has the washer against some 
hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care 



COCK IlokSK 



not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move. 
A 24" No. 6 round-head screw holds the feet to the pro- 
jecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to bore the hole 
for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than 
the. size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the 
supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle. 
COCK HORSE. 

The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby 
horse, and affords the children, between the ages of four 
and six, unlimited pleasure. 

The head is made of a piece of Ji" bass or pine, 5 1 ..." 
wide and 9 l / 2 " long. 

The features may be enlarged from the size drawn 
in Plate 50. by the method given at the beginning of the 
book for enlarging; or, if one is apt at free-hand draw- 
ing, the outline may be copied offhand. 

Cut the features out right to the line with a coping 
saw and smooth the edges and surfaces with No. | - 2 sand- 
paper. 

The stick is made ^j"xl"x32", and the front end is 
chamfered y$". 

Holes are bored for l T j" No. 10 flat-head screws, the 
first \Y\ from the front end and the other two \y± 
apart. 

Two smaller pieces, which are made jHTx^'x/ 1 ^", 
are to hold the wheel in position. Holes are bored in 



these two pieces to take 1J4" No. 8 round-head screws, 
the first one being %" from the end and the next two 
24" apart. 

On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as 
shown. 

A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces 
to receive a 2^"x%" round-head stove bolt, on which the 
wheel turns. 

The wheel is made 7 S " thick and 6" in diameter, either 
on a. lathe or with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the 
center a little larger than the %"x2^4" stove bolt, so that 
the wheel will turn easily upon it. 

Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, 
using 1J4" round-head blue screws. Give these two 
•-oats of natural varnish. 

Paint the wheel two coats of bright red. 

Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying 
give one or two coats of white enamel. After this has 
dried thoroughly, paint the comb and wattles bright red. 
Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes yellow, and 
the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors 
join, outline with a drafting pen and India ink. 

A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive 
a piece of ^4" dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. 
Glue this handle in place, taking care that it projects 
equally on both sides. 




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ROCKING ROOSTER 



ROCKING ROOSTER. 

This very interesting action toy is especially suitable 
for children as young as two years of age. It is simple 
in construction and perfectly safe. (Plate 51.) 

The seat board is made %"x5"x21". Measure 6" in 
from one end on both long edges, and at these points 
narrow the front end to 3}/" wide by sawing out a piece 
on both sides 1%" wide. 

Round the corners where the taper comes, also the 
other four corners of the top. Similarly, round the upper 
edge of the top. 

The two rockers are made %"x4y 2 "xl8". Measure 
down J4" on the two ends, and from these points care- 
fully sketch a free-hand curve with its highest point di- 
rectly in the center of the lower edge. Be # sure this curve 
balances equally and that the two rockers are exactlv 
alike. 

The rooster's head is made %"x6"xl0*4" and the out- 
line is sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the 
drawing. 

Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains 
to have the saw at right angles to the surface of the wood 
at all times. 

A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3^" 
from the top and \ l />" from the rear edge. A y^' bit is 
used. 




Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight. 

The handle is made 6" long and %" in diameter, 

shaping it as shown in the front view. If this cannot 

be turned on a lathe, the handle may be made from a 6" 

piece of -)4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a file. 

Holes are now bored for the iy 2 " No. 8 flat-head 
screws which hold the rockers and head to the top. The 
locations of these holes are clearly shown in the drawing. 
Countersink the holes on the side from which the screws 
enter. 

The little separating block, which goes between the 



held in place with 



rockers, is made %"xl"x2y 2 ", and 
glue. 

Sand all pieces thoroughly. 

Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's 



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KIDDIE CAR 



head is centered well and placed two inches from the 
front end. 

The rockers are attached 1 ! j" from the ends and so 
placed that they are just an inch apart. 

~ Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand 
lightly with No. sandpaper when dry. Paint in the 
comb and wattles of the rooster bright red and the 
feathers on the neck, green. 

After these colors have dried, apply another coat of 
white, where indicated, this time using white enamel. 
Use a small brush for the details. The beak and the 
circle about the eye are painted yellow and the other 
circle about the eye is painted black. 

If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle 
when the last coat is dry, apply another coat of each 
color. Outline the edge of the comb and wattles with 
a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak and 
eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors 
meet and sets off the features. 

The top and rockers are treated with two coats of 
white enamel on top of the priming coat. 
KIDDIE KAR. 

It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of 
this toy. Its construction is well within the ability of 
the average eighth grade boy. 

The seat board (Plate 52) is made of %" stock and is 




first cut 7y 2 " wide and 2V/ 2 " long. Half the outline of 
the curve at the front she mid he traced on a folded piece 
of paper, the proper size, and cut out and traced on the 
wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and 
chiseled to the correct shape. 

The top edge of the seat should be rounded. 

The rear support should have half its outline traced 
on a folded piece of paper and cut out and traced on a 
piece of wood <-g"x5"x6 I 2". Finish t<> the line. 

The brace is cut ~s"x5"x ( " _>". 

Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw 
and chisel to the line. The wheels and steering gear 
should be turned on a lathe to the dimensions shown on 
the drawing. 



TOY CRAFT 



A hole is bored in the seat board, l-}4" from the front 
end and half way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. 
This is to allow the steering post, which is turned to %" 
diameter, freedom to turn. 

Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear 
brace, as shown, to secure the same to the top. Holes 
are likewise bored half way between the sides of this 
brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece. 

The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1J4" 
from the small end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that 
go into the top. 

Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in 
the lower part of the rear brace, to receive the large 
screws which hold the rear wheels in place. It is quite 
necessary to make these holes, using a bit a trifle smaller 
than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to force 
a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These 
holes must be bored exactly straight, otherwise the 
wheels will turn unevenly. 

Washers should be used between the screw heads and 
the wheels and between the wheels and any part they are 
likely to come in contact with. 

A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below 
the top board, for a screw to be placed to hold the upper 
and lower part of the steering rod firm. Glue is also 
used when assembling the two parts of the steering ap- 



paratus. The handle is also held in place with a screw 
and glue, as shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a 
size suitable to receive the steering rod. 

Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above 
and below the seat board, to prevent wear. 

In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a 
hole should first be bored with an inch bit so that the 
top edge of the slot comes 3^" from the bottom of the 
steering gear. 

This slot should be very carefully sawed out and 
smoothed up so that the wheel, which is %" thick, will 
turn accurately. 

The holes in all the wheels must center accurately 
and be larger than the screw or bolt which goes through 
them. The front wheel turns on a J4"xlj4" round-head 
stove bolt. 

The color scheme may be varied to suit individual 
tastes. 

The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels 
with the remaining parts of the kiddie kar finished nat- 
ural with spar varnish. 

All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assem- 
bling. Two coats of paint should be applied to the 
wheels and two coats of varnish to the remainder. 

Sand in between coats with No. sandpaper. 



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TOY CRAFT 



KIDDIE KOASTER. 

is lively toy is somewhat different from the three- 



wheeled Kiddie Kar and is suited for children of eight 
or over. 

If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels 
like a velocipede. 

If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard 
wood, is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch 
in diameter. This dowel should go through a hole in the 
rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to the ends 
with 2" No. 12 round-head screws' and washers. 

The following directions are for the two-wheel Kid- 
die Koaster shown in Plate 53. 

The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of 
hard wood, 2"x2}4 "xl9". A distance of 7" is measured 
up from the lower end and ]/%" is measured beyond this. 
From this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to 
one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the 
bottom end chamfered, as shown. 

A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-)4" from 
the lower end. An allowance of y 2 " is made for the thick- 
ness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with 
a saw up to the hole previously bored. 

A hole is bored for the handle, 1%" from the top, with 
a }i" bit. Another hole is bored on each side, 6'4" from 
the lower end with a 24" bit, J / 2 " deep. 




These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes 
are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a 
J /i"x2y2" round-head stove bolt. A %" bit should be 
used to bore these. 

The rear support is made 2"x2^4"xl6^4". From a 
point 6 1 // from the lower end this is thinned down to 
one inch thick, the same way as the front support. At 



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TOY CRAFT 



the upper end measure down on one edge %" and draw 
to the opposite corner. 

Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with 
the cross piece. A hole is bored with a %" bit, one inch 
from the lower end to take a J4"x2j4" round-head stove 
bolt. 

Chamfer -;«" from the lower end. 

Bore a hole 4}4" from the lower end with an inch bit 
and remove the wood to form the rear fork, in the same 
manner as was done for the front. 

The cross piece between the front and rear support, 
on which the seat rests, is first made %"x5"xl3' i / <i" ■ 

Measure in two inches from the upper corner and 
draw a line to the lower corner. Saw squarely on this 
line to get the proper slant. Measure from this upper 
left-hand corner 9^2" and draw a line from here to the 
lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last 
end sawed, measure in J4" and make a tenon, as indi- 
cated in the side view. This tenon should be J4" thick. 
The other dimensions for the tenon are given on the 
drawing. 

On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to 
receive the tenon tightly, and to make the top edge of the 
cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line. 

This tenon should be cut with a J />" bit, boring so as 
to make the mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the 



extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly 
within the mortise. 

Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and %" 
brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place, as 
indicated. 

The seat is made ^"x.5"x7". It is shaped, as shown 
in the sketch, cutting the outline with a turning saw and 
finishing to the line with a chisel and file. Two holes 
are bored and countersunk to receive 1*4" No. 8 flat-head 
screws which hold the seat in place. 

The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suit- 
able material and covered with brown burlap or with 
imitation leather, as desired. A piece of braid, to match 
the material used, is tacked around the lower edge with 
upholstery tacks to match. 

The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a 
lathe, although they may be whittled out with a jack- 
knife. The dimensions for these are clearly shown. v 

The front wheel is 91-4" in diameter, made from wood 
%" thick. The rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood 
being }i" stock. 

These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood 
glued up three-ply. These are best turned on a lathe, 
although they may be cut with a turning saw and 
chiseled to the line and finished with a file. 

A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy 



SKI SKOOTER 



manufacturing firm, to place between the front support 
and the cross-piece. In the author's classes, hinges ot 
this special type were obtained in various sizes, without 
any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five 
inches long and costs fourteen cents. 

If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt 
hinges may be substituted, two being used. 

A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these 
hinges, can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. 
A saw cut can be made in the cross piece, across the end, 
in which to insert the hinge. When assembled, screws 
should be placed so as to accurately engage with the 
screw holes in the hinges. 

Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly 
sanded and painted two coats. 

A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing. 

SKI SKOOTER. 

The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of 
ash. 

The runner is first made ^"x3^"x39" and thinned 
down, for ten inches from the front end, to fyi" thick. 

The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the 
method shown in Plate 55. 

The upright piece is made %"x3^"xl6}^" and one of 
the bracing pieces %"xl}i"xl2" and the other %"xl^"x 




I'll.- Ski SI;. ...tor is u -iv:i( spurt on a 
i lerate hill. 

13". These are cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, 
as shown. 

The seat is made %"x6"xl2", and the top edges are 
slightly rounded. 

Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, 
are made %"xj/j$"x5". 



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TOY CRAFT 



Two strengthening pieces are made %"x^"x3^" and 
their ends are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are at- 
tached to the upright directly under the seat. 

Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and coun- 
tersink them. Assemble with glue and screws of a size 
shown on the drawing. 

The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be 
changed to suit individual tastes. Two coats of paint are 
applied, sanding carefully between coats. 

The seat can be upholstered if desired. 

METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS. 

Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boil- 
ing water, and allow them to remain about five hours 

Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the 
back edge of the top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend 
the runner downward until it lays flat on the front edjres 
of the other steps. b 

Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of 
rope and wood. Plate 55 shows two methods of bending 
the runners. Regular skis may be bent in the same mam 
ner. 

Leave the runners in the clamps overnight 

SKI SKIPPERS. 
The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter 
amusement, and great speed can be obtained on the sur- 




wen as girls. 

tace of the snow, especially when the crust is covered 
with a small amount of light snow. 

The runners are best made of white ash, from half- 
inch material, 2ji" wide and 42" long. (Plate 56 ) 

The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about 
five inches from the end. The extreme tips are blunt 
being y 2 wide. 



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TOY CRAFT 



Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the 
runners are thinned down with a plane, on the upper sur- 
face, to Y% thick. 

Both runners have a groove cut along their counters 
from the rear end to the point where they curve upward. 

This groove is ]/\ deep and y 2 " wide, and may be cut 
by various methods. It may be cut with a grooving 
plane; it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and 
the inner part removed with a chisel ; or, if a power saw 
is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw. 

The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered 
about y$" for a finish. When the foregoing operations 
are completed, the runners should be bent, using the 
method shown in Plate 55. 

The slats forming the seat top are now made 
1 / ^"x2^"xl2", and the single slat for the foot rest 

y 2 "xiy 2 "x.i2". 

The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk -\ ( " 
from the edges and 1%" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 
8 flat-head screws. The foot slat has a similar hole bored 
iy" from the ends and centered between the edges. 

The seat supports are first cut y&"x.7y 2 "x9y 2 " and then 
an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and 
lines are drawn to the lower corners, as shown. Saw 
and plane to this line, making the taper as shown in the 
side view. The cross brace is made %"x3"x9". 



The supports for the foot rests are first made 
~s"x3"x3; 2 ". On the upper edge, which is 3y 2 " long, 
measure in %" from each end and draw the sloping lines 
to the lower corners, making the taper, as indicated. 
Round these upper corners. 

Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights 
at places where they will engage with the uprights, at 
points shown on the drawing. There should be three 
screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front 
support. Assemble with glue and \y 2 " No. 8 flat-head 
screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. 
At these points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long 
enough. 

It will be noticed, in examining the top and front 
views, that the supporting uprights are not placed di- 
rectly half way between the edges of the skis, but are 
offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the 
runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in 
the groove. 

Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which 
the rope is attached, are made from y 2 " material, 1 T 4" 
square. 

Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and 
they are attached eight inches from the front end of the 
runner with -;4" No. 6 round-head screws. A screw eye 



DOLL'S SLEIGH 



is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to receive a 
Y% rope. 

It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in 
order to prevent splitting the block. 

A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. 
Two coats of paint should be applied. 

DOLL SLEIGH. 

While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and pur- 
poses details a doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimen- 
sions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child. 

First, make the runners of l /i' spruce, or other suit- 
able wood, cutting them 9" wide by 26" long. 

On the upper edge measure back ljj" and from this 
point draw to the corner of the lower edge. Saw to this 
line and slightly round the corners, as shown. With the 
dividers set at a radius of 4 T , V' , strike a circle very lightly 
on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will be just 
tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up 
from the lower edge of the runner 7y 2 " and draw a line 
parallel to it until it strikes the circle. Cut to this line 
and also saw to the curve of the circle, forming the out- 
line of the runner. Finish to the line with a chisel and 
file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. 
Bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to 
flare. 




Next make the sleigh bottom ^4"xl0"xl6^". Two 
braces, to go below the sleigh bottom, are made y 2 "x3"x 
8/ 2 ". 

These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as 
shown. The angle is obtained by measuring in JHs" on 
one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from 
this point and sawing to the line. 



TOY CRAFT 



i 



The sides of the sleigh are made J^"x8"x22". On the 
top edge measure in 7j 4 " and place a dot. Measure down 
from the right-hand lower corner of the sides 4 l / 2 " and 
from this point, draw to the right-hand upper corner. 

From the left-hand lower corner measure in U/ 4 " and 
place a dot. From the same corner measure up on the 
left-hand edge six inches and make another dot. Connect 
these two dots to form the slope of the front end. From 
the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand 
edge 1%" long. From this point sketch a free-hand 
curve, as is shown in the side view of the sleigh (Plate 
57) to the point first located on the upper edge. Cut to 
the outline, being sure both sides match. 

The front edge of the sleigh is made J4"x6"xll" and 
the rear end ^"x9"xll^". On the lower edge of the rear 
end measure in \5/ 8 " from each corner and draw to the 
upper opposite corners. Saw and plane to these lines. 
This will give the taper of the rear end. 

Place the board from which the front is to be cut on 
the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and care- 
fully finish to the line. 

The two handles are made %"xlJ4"x23>4", and the 
top piece, or grip, l"xlJ4"xl9". 

The uprights are mortised into the grips %", as shown 
on the drawing. 

Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the run- 



ners with a medium-size drill, and at these points an 
inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the 
runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The ends of the 
dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the 
runners. This dowel is held with glue and \y 2 " No. 10 
round-head screws. 

Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view 
(Plate 57), to hold the brace in place. Holes are also 
bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at 
places most convenient. 

Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the 
same to Jhe cross braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. 
Use 1J4" No. 8 round-head screws on the outside of the 
runners. The handles are attached with 3/l6"xiy 2 " 
round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be se- 
cured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails. 

If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered 
with y 2 " strap iron. 

Various finishes may be used after the parts are thor- 
oughly sanded. If stain is to be the finish, apply it ac- 
cording to the directions in the front of the book and, 
after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats of shel- 
lac. Sand between coats with No. sandpaper. After 
the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar var- 
nish. 



Plate 57 



DOLLS SLE/6t1. 



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TOY CRAFT 



If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide 
on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat 
white, after which one or two finish coats may be ap- 
plied when dry, sanding lightly between each coat. 
CHILD'S TABLE. 

This is a very useful and practical problem and has 
been made up in large numbers by seventh and eighth 
grade boys. 

The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the 
table and takes up but little room. 

The top is joined by glueing several boards together 
and finishes 30" in diameter. Basswood, ]/&" thick, is very 
good material to use. The boards must be carefully 
jointed and held together with y 2 " dowels. Hot glue is 
the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. 
Leave the pieces in the clamps overnight. The top may 
be cut to shape with a turning saw and finished to the 
line with a sharp chisel and file. 

The four legs are %"xl%"x20^". Two cleats, which 
are screwed to the underside of the table, are next made, 
these being %"x3"x24". 

These cross each other in the middle with a middle 
lap joint, as indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is 
cut on the ends of these braces at C, as shown, to receive 
the legs. 

The legs are held in place with glue and lj4" No. 10 
round-head blue screws. 




The braces are attached to the top of the table with 
a sufficient number of 1*4" No. 8 flat-head screws to in- 
sure a strong job. 

The legs are notched f'% deep, 7" up from the bottom, 
to receive the lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. 
These lower braces are %"xl}i"x2¥ , joined at their cen- 
ter with a middle lap joint, the same as the top braces, 
and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and \y 2 " 
round-head screws. 



P/ate 58. 




TOY CRAFT 



All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with 
No. 1 sandpaper and then finished with No. 0. 

The final finish is optional. It may be stained and 
varnished or it may be finished in enamel. 

If enamel is used there should first be a couple of 
coats of flat white applied, each coat being sanded when 
dry, with No. sandpaper, and the final coat of enamel 
applied. 

Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be 
put on with stencil if desired. 



CHILD'S CHAIR. 

Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to 
match the table in Plate 58. 

The rear legs should first be cut out of %," stock, iy$" 
wide and 25" long. The two connecting rails are 
W'x9%". The lower rail is notched into both front and 
rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, }i" deep. 

The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 
Ys," deep, and 4" above the lower rail. The pieces so far 
completed may now be sanded and assembled, using glue 
and \ l / 2 " No. 10 round-head screws. 



It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight- 
penny finish nail each side of the screws. These should 
be set below the surface, and the hole should be filled 
with hard beeswax before painting. 

While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be 
made. 

These rails, five in number, are all J / s"xiy$"x8%". 
The wide back rail is made of y 2 " material, W 2 " wide 
by 8y 4 " long. 

Holes should next be bored for the various screws 
where indicated on the drawing. 

A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails 
and helps support the seat, is made Jf' x3"x8%". This is ' 
attached, as shown in the sketch of the joinery of the 
legs and rails, and is screwed to the under side of the 
seat with \y A " No. 8 flat-head screws. 

The seat is made %"xl0"xll>4" and is notched at the 
corners to receive the rear legs. The top is rounded 
slightly on its rear edges. 

Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of 
proper size, as shown. All surfaces should be carefully 
sanded and the finish should be treated as described for 
the table. 



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INDEX 



Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, IS 

Bean Bag Game, 72-4 

Bench Hook, 22-4 

Camel, 38 

Child's Cart, 93-5; Chair, 130-1; Dump Wagon, 95-9; Snow 
Shovel, 46-7; Step Ladder, 59-63; Table, 12S-30; Wash Bench, 
57-9; Wheelbarrow (Type A). 99-103, (Type B), 102-5 

Clown Running Wheel, 105-9 

Cock Horse, 109-10 

Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7; Cradle, 87-9; Table, 64-6 

Coping Saw Work, 26-7 
Darts, 75-7 

Dart Board Game, 74-6 
Dippy Duck, 40-1 

Doll's Bed, 89-91; Clothes Rack, 55-7; Cradle, 84-7; Ironing Board 
(Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5; Sleigh, 125-8; 
Table with Drawer, 62-4 
Dowel Sticks, 27 
Duck, 30 
Elephant, 33 
Equipment, 13-4 
Finish and Color, 15-7 
Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72 
Goat, 36 
Goose, 31 
History of Toy-Making, 11-3 p rv __ Q ^ { 



Kiddie Kar. 113-15; Koaster, 116-19 

Lamb, 35 

Laying Out Work, 14 

Merrimac, 44-5 

Method of Bending Runners, 121-2; of Enlarging Figures, 39-40; 

of Jointing Wood, 1S-20 
Monitor. 42-3 
Pelican, 29 
Periscope, 47-8 

Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8 
Rabbit, 34 
Rhinoceros, 32 
Ring-The-Hook Game, 6S-9 
Rocking Rooster, 111-13 
Rooster, 37 

Sand or Water Mill, 82-4 
Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6 
Ski Skippers, 122-5 
Ski Skooter, 119-22 
Staining, 17-8 
Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2; for Holding Coping Saw Work, 

20; for Table Use, 22 
Transferring a Design, 14-5 
Two Types of Stilts, 91-3 
Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2 



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